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Napalm Gun

2012-04-07T02:30:59Z

JD: added "launches" for spelling

The Napalm Gun is a weapon that doesn't do a lot of direct damage. But by virtue of its effects, it's one of the most powerful weapons in the game.

The Napalm Gun launches a grenade at a high ballistic arc like a Car Grenade Launcher, but the grenades do very little damage even if they hit directly. What they do is to spread a pool of flaming oil that damages tyres and bottom armor.

The Napalm Gun is a direct strike at the mobility of your enemies. A field of Napalm Gun shots in your enemies' path will leave them slowed, crippled and easy meat.

Heavy Gatling Gun

2012-04-07T02:25:21Z

JD: added "In a target rich environment"

A really big [[Gatling Gun]] with a few critical differences:

In a target rich environment, the HGG has a tendency to damage and/or destroy the engine and working machinery (chassis) of your enemy no matter where you hit it.
As such, you might want to use this weapon sparingly if you intend on looting the cars of your defeated foes.
If you are not into looting because of a fat wallet and like to see "red-dead" opponents, the HGG, used in conjunction with another gang killer like the [[Car Rifle]], will rid you of targets in a hurry.
[[Category: Weapons]]

Flamethrower

2012-04-07T02:12:41Z

JD: Removed an addition from "an irate player"

'''Big, clumsy, and terrifying''';

The flamethrower (and its big brother) produces temperatures capable of melting steel in seconds. Due to the extreme fuel requirements, the flamethrower can only muster a limited number of shots before running dry. You're also increasing the risk of your own vehicle exploding when you take damage.

When any flame producing weapon takes damage or the vehicle catches fire, the vehicle will operate normally until one of two thing happen.

(Best case scenario) Your car drives through the flames, shooting your target(s) and extinguishes itself......
(Bad news) Your car drives through the flames shooting normally then BOOM!.... Say goodbye to your car, the gangers in the car and possibly any other gangers or cars within 2 car lengths of your detonation.

The resulting explosion will be powerful enough to kill your car, every one in it, AND seriously damage or kill any cars with occupants within 2 car lengths of your ill-fated vehicle.

Fifth's Muscle Manual

2012-04-07T01:36:43Z

JD: Added "describing" to (Then will be describing basic strategies) to Fifths Muscle manual

The muscle car is one of the true joys of Darkwind. Neither well armored nor well armed, its primary asset in the wilderness is its speed and maneuverability. Wilderness battles have been won against enormous odds because of one or two well-employed muscle cars.

Muscles are also indispensable for hunting Traders, because only muscle cars can chase down and corral fleeing cargo vehicles.

But muscle cars are terribly vulnerable when exchanging fire with the enemy, due to their light armor and weapon loads, and their high speed can be as much a vulnerability as an asset. The difference between a victorious muscle and a very fast coffin is forethought and planning.

This manual is broken into several sections. First I’ll go over what a muscle car is, and setting up your muscle, and I’ll go over different weapons. Then will be describing basic strategies and tactics, and I’ll close with the Chassis Appendix, going over the chassis one by one.

== Section 1: Setting Up ==

=== What Is (And Isn’t) A Muscle? ===

A muscle is a midsize car that can mount a big engine unexposed. The [[Windsor]] and [[Windsor II]] are not muscles. No car with an exposed engine should be considered a muscle, as they are too vulnerable to survive in a combat zone. Here’s a (partial) list of muscle chassis:

*[[Phoenix]]
*[[Sunrise]]
*[[Voyager]]
*[[Vampire]]
*[[Pike]]
*[[Bullet]]
*[[Buccaneer]]
*[[Roadrunner]]
*[[Moray]]
*[[Flail]]
*[[Osprey]]
*[[Stormer]]
*[[Flash]]
*[[Corghette]]

All of these, other than the Flash and the Voyager, can mount a 4L or larger engine unexposed. The Flash is included because of its sheer speed and ability to accept an engine disproportionately large for its size, and the Voyager is included because of its sheer speed & ability to accept a 3.2l V8, which allows it to keep up with almost anything in the wilderness. I’ll go into each of these chassis in detail in the Chassis Appendix.

=== Components ===

'''Engine'''
In general, you want at least a 4L engine or a 3.2LV8. A full-sized muscle with a 3.2L engine isn’t a muscle at all, it’s a coffin. Some engines can handle a 5L, but keep an eye on the bulk used for weapons and ammo.

'''Armor'''
Max out your front, put 5 on your top and bottom, and distribute the rest evenly between your sides and rear. Class B - NEVER C. A-class armor is tempting and gives a nice speed boost, but is awfully expensive to keep repaired.

'''Fuel'''
A 2-unit tank is sufficient for most muscle operations. An extra unit or two on top of that can enable your muscle scouts to go further out and improve your odds.

'''Tyres'''
Offroad all the way. Handling is everything to a muscle. The exception to this is if you’re working in rough terrain, then you need Reinforced.

'''Crew'''
Driver and gunner. Putting in 2 gunners takes up too much valuable space. Your driver should have at least 20 skill, but 40 is really preferred. With more driving skill, you’ll accelerate faster and you’ll be more stable. Your gunner should have at least some Gunnery skill, but muscles are a good way to train gunners. Defensive Driver is a great specialism for muscle drivers, as is Deathracer.

'''Suspension'''
Suspension settings are different for every chassis and weapon load, but one thing is true across the board: increasing tyre pressure will give you increased acceleration at lower speeds, under about 40MPH, but you will lose some control at the top end. Increased tyre pressure is highly recommended for vehicles that spend time in lower-speed dogfights. Past that, experiment with your cars to find a suspension setting that fits your style.

'''Weapons'''
Front, front, front. You want your weapons on the FRONT. Side mounts are possible, but not generally recommended. Rear mounts sound good on paper, but they’re actually very difficult to use in practice.

Here’s your menu of killware:

[[Machine Gun]] - The vanilla option. Don’t knock it, a pair of these on the front of a muscle can really chew through enemy armor over the long run, and they have decent range and accuracy. The downside is, you need a pair to make a decent punch, and your driver will have to man one of them. Your accuracy with that gun will be lower.

[[Gatling Gun]] - The [[Machine Gun]] on steroids. The downside is, its range is shorter and you NEED two of them to make a decent punch, so your driver better have decent Gunnery skills. Watch out for the increased recoil - sustained fire can really slow you down.

[[Micromissile Launcher]] - Like the Machine Gun and Gatling Gun, the MML is small enough to be fitted in pairs, or mixed with a MG or GG. However, I don’t recommend doing so. Having an explosive round is useful in some cases, but there isn’t enough punch to outweigh the low ammunition capacity. Some chassis can accept a MML alongside a [[Medium Machine Gun]] as a driver-controlled secondary weapon, and this is an enormously effective build at short range.

[[Medium Machine Gun]] - My favorite muscle weapon. Decent damage, manageable recoil, good ammo supply, and low bulk. You will NOT have enough room for 2 of them, except on the larger cars, but that’s not a bad thing, you’ll be able to fit several reloads or a One-Shot secondary. Putting in just one gun lets your gunner concentrate on killing properly.

[[Heavy Machine Gun]] - One of the heaviest weapons available to muscles, the HMG should be deployed with care. Its recoil is hard enough to seriously affect your handling, and its 40 bulk will generally limit you to a single reload. On the other hand, its sheer power and ammo capacity can sometimes outweigh its bulk. Best deployed on the [[Phoenix]].

[[Rocket Launcher]] - The Rocket Launcher is a sledgehammer of muscle weapons. Peeling 3 or 4 off an enemy with a single hit is very tempting, to say the least. But the 10-round clip means you’ll be reloading mid-fight, and you generally will only have room for a single reload. Having only 20 rounds of fire means you have to hit Every. Single. Time. Also, the large blast radius can make a lot of problems for you in a tight, up-close fight. If you have a Rapid Reload gunner and lots of ammo space, go for it.

[[Heavy Gatling Gun]] - Rare and powerful, the HGG is better mounted on an SUV than a muscle. Its fierce recoil will throw you all over the place.

[[Car Rifle]] - The Sniper’s Best Friend, the Car Rifle is feared for good reason. But in the high-speed muscle fights, you will NOT have enough time to line up a proper shot, and the 15-round magazine means you’ll have less sustained fire. Use a Medium Machine Gun unless you have some very skilled Snipers.

[[Flamethrower]] - The Flamethrower is another weapon that looks better on paper than it does in combat. As long as you’re running like you’re on fire, why not set everyone else on fire too? But unless you like being quite literally on fire, avoid the Flamethrower. Its damage is not high enough to justify its short range and small clip size. Also, ANY damage to the FT will set you on fire. Avoid unless you are making a suicide/novelty car.

[[Napalm Gun]] - The Napalm Gun is perhaps the only ballistic weapon that can be remotely useful on a muscle car. It takes some planning ,especially given that the NG's bulk means that it may be the only weapon on a car, but being able to throw flaming oil into the path of the enemy can be invaluable, especially if you're Kiting.

One-Shots - I’m using this as a catchall for the [[Mini|Mini Rocket]], [[Light|Light Rocket]], [[Medium|Medium Rocket]], and [[Heavy|Heavy Rocket]] Rockets and their respective Racks and Pods. A One-Shot mounted next to your primary weapon can give a low-armor opponent a serious case of the breaches. Given that you’ll need to use your driver to man it and you only have a single shot with them, you need to time your shots carefully to hit an enemy’s weak side from close range. But a well-placed rocket can shorten a duel by several turns. My personal favorite is a toss-up between a [[Light Rocket Rack]] (3 shots, triple the fun!) and a single [[Heavy Rocket]]. (Make a Big Bang!)
As appealing as One-Shots are, NEVER compromise your primary firepower to fit in a bigger One-Shot. Your main weapon is your cake, your One-Shot is your icing.

=== Sample Builds ===

{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Name !! Chassis !! Engine !! CR !! Weapons !! Occupants !! Notes
|-
| [[Scimitar]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 124
| Fr [[GG]]x2
| 2
| An impressive but fragile dogfighter. Stay away from your enemies' weapons, and get the Gatling Guns onto their flanks and rear. The guns work best at close range, especially with low-skill gangers.
|-
| [[Chaser]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 4L
| 104
| FR [[MMG]]
| 2 or 3
| This NPC Build has less firepower than the Scimitar, but offers much better ammo capacity and less recoil. The MMG will have a slightly better range than double [[Gatling]]s, and much better control. Add a driver-controlled One-Shot for extra firepower.
|-
| [[Hawk]]
| [[Vampire]]
| 3.2L V8
| 104
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRR]]
| 2
| Expensive but worth every penny. One of the most successful light dogfighters around, because it'll outrun whatever it can't outfight. Deploy in a pair for an instant hunting unit.
|-
| [[Eliminator]]
| [[Voyager]]
| 3.2L (V8 optional)
| 111
| FR 2X [[MG]] RE [[MG]]
| 2-3
| This NPC/Rental model serves as a great base for an interceptor and dogfighter. Low on firepower and fragile, but the Machine Guns give it better range and accuracy than the Scimitar.
|-
| [[Panther]]
| [[Bullet]]
| 4L
| 102
| FR [[MMG]] [[MRP]]
| 2
| An excellent trader-hunter with style and flair. Save the rockets for enemy breaches, and it'll do serious damage.
|-
| [[Kestrel]]
| [[Phoenix]] or [[Sunrise]]
| 3.2L V8
| 112
| FR [[MMG]] [[MML]]
| 2
| Pricey, but extremely effective at short to medium range. The MML adds little recoil to the chassis, giving consistent handling when guns are firing. Leaves a reload each, so be careful when you decide to shoot, this build is only recommended up north.
|-
|}

== Section 2: Let’s Talk Tactics ==

=== Strategy and Combat Roles ===

Muscle tactics fall into four general areas: '''Kiting, Strafing, Dueling''' and '''Chasing'''. Which one of these you perform depends a great deal on the situation of the rest of your scout, so LISTEN to your squadmates. Clear communication can make the difference between a successful scout and a disaster.

*'''Kiting''' - Kiting is distracting the AI opponents. Run fast around them, OUTSIDE of their Line of Fire, and see who peels off to chase you. You don’t need to get the whole group’s attention, and every enemy that’s chasing you is one less that’s firing on your buddies. If none of them chase you, you can start '''Strafing''' their stragglers. If you only pull one enemy, you have a good chance to '''Duel''' it into submission, but if you have more than one, keep running until the rest of your squad is done with their portion and ready to peel them off of you. Kiting can also put you into position to '''Strafe''' stragglers or '''Clip''' artillery wagons.

*'''Strafing''' - Strafing is, in essence, attacking a group of enemies at high speed. Get your speed up - between 60 and 80 is ideal - and pick your closest target. Take several turns to plan out your approach, and check your target’s weapon arcs carefully. A rear strike is ideal on a [[Mutant Marauder]], but not a good idea against a [[Poltergeist]]. NEVER aim straight in at your target, aim slightly to one side. Keep your speed up as you make your attack run, fire a few times, then move on to the next target. You don’t need to kill your target, just sting it. Then you can move onto the next target or break off and set up for another run.

Related to strafing is '''Clipping'''. AI cars with Grenade Launchers and Mortars can be deadly because they tend to hide behind their consorts while showering a squad with high-explosive rain. But a muscle car or two can sometimes loop behind the consorts and knock out or distract an artillery vehicle. Even if the artillery is only distracted, you've bought your teammates a moment of respite from the falling shells.

Clipping an artillery car is risky, but can be done with enough speed. Drop your speed to 40 as you start firing, concentrate your fire on one armor facing, and get your teeth in. If the target or another car seems to be turning for you, accelerate out of danger, rinse, and repeat until your target is dead.

*'''Dueling''' - This is the opposite of Strafing. You’re getting in, going in for the kill, doing it for the thrill. As the name suggests, you’re going for a single opponent, and you’re not giving up until they’re dead in the desert.

First, know your opponent. Know exactly what weapons it has, know his firing arcs, and figure out how to get your teeth into him without getting bitten. In almost every duel, you WILL be outgunned, use your maneuverability to stay out of his fire zones. Taking some fire is all right, but spread it out among your sides, but focus your fire on one or two of his facets. Watch your ammunition level, and leave your opponent lamed and burning.

*'''Chasing''' - During trader hunts, this is where the muscle shows its true strengths. While your heavier allies are hammering the cargo escorts into scrap, your job is simple: keep the cargo from getting away.

Communicate with other chasers, make sure all of the runners are covered and none get to 350 meters.

Runners are fairly dumb AIs, they run away from the closest player. You can use this to your advantage if you can get one muscle in front of the pack, they’ll turn back toward your heavies or scatter into rough terrain. Most runners have heavy rear guns, so don’t get too close. With enough carnage among the escorts, traders will demoralize, but to maximize salvage, it’s a good idea to start shooting at traders when the escort is mostly demoralized. This increases the runners’ stress level and brings them closer to demoralizing. You DON’T want to actually breach them unless you’re in serious danger, but stressing them can shorten the scout by several turns.

Of all the cargo vehicles, [[Trade Runner]]s are the sole exception - you want to kill them, or at least silence their guns. They very rarely carry good cargo, and their heavy artillery can be lethal to chasers. The best tactic for bringing a Trade Runner down is to use two cars to go at its flanks and front and kill its engine. If you can't spare a second car, use terrain to shield yourself from its guns until you can get beside it. Get your teeth into its flank, and don't let go.

'''All-Muscle Squads'''

For an all-muscle squad, forming a line like a conventional scout squad is a recipe for suicide. I've found that the best strategy revolves around breaking your force into units of 2 or 3 cars each, and each attack group picks a target to duel. Running for a time is a good way to break an opposing force up, and then the attack groups can turn on individual enemies. Go in fast and hard, and kill the enemy as fast as possible.

=== Turn By Turn ===

Once the bullets start flying, fighting with a muscle becomes brutally simple: stay out of your enemy’s fire zones and keep your guns on your opponent. Have a working knowledge of the basic Somerset [[NPC Vehicles|NPC designs]] and what gun is on which facing. While avoiding fire is always a must, especially avoid rocket launchers, HMGs, and MMLs - the kinetic impact can badly affect your handling. Pick a target facing and pour your fire into it.

Knowing your car is especially important for muscle drivers. For your first couple outings with a chassis you’re not familiar with, take it out with a group on relatively low-risk scouts until you’re used to the handling. Alternately, load it into DW: Tactical and take it through some paces, get used to how it handles on sand and rock and asphalt.

'''The Slope Turn'''

Use terrain wisely. If you need to turn around quickly, you can climb up a slope and use it to shave a turn or two off your turning time. when front wheels are on the slope, turn your steering wheel all the way and keep it there until your front is below your back, and then start countersteering out. Be careful, as this can expose your top armor, but it's a useful trick.

'''Tactical Kiting'''

This is fancy verbiage for using your buddies as bait. Keep an eye on all your buddies - enemies who are going for your wingman can be vulnerable themselves to a sustained side or rear attack. And if an enemy is on your tail, you may be able to lure it into your allies' loving embrace, if you don't mind losing some armor in the doing.

'''A Note On The Handbrake'''

Used properly and sparingly, the handbrake can be the best medicine for a tight situation. But like all remedies, it's best used in moderation.

When you're moving at high speed in a tight turn, the handbrake can sometimes enable you to turn 180 or 270 degrees in a single turn, at the cost of a fair chunk of your speed. This can be very useful at the end of an attack run, but losing that much of your speed can be lethal. Use with caution.

== Chassis Appendix ==

[[Phoenix]] - The venerable Phoenix is probably your first muscle car, as it’s the most common in [[Somerset]], and even as you move onto better muscles, Phoenixes remain the best option for training drivers, because replacements can always be found. I’ve found them generally forgiving of newbie driving mistakes. Like all muscles, they have a tendency to drift and tend to lose armor to terrain.

[[Sunrise]] - The [[Phoenix]]’s twin. The [[Sunrise]] and [[Phoenix]] are identical in the garage, with identical armor, engine, and bulk characteristics. But out in the wild, the Sunrise is quite different from its sibling. The Sunrise tends to handle differently, softer and with a pronounced drift. After turning at high speed, it’s not uncommon to drift on your original course for several turns. The Sunrise demands planning four or five turns ahead. For all its faults, the [[Sunrise]] is marginally faster than the Phoenix and tends to lose less armor to terrain.

[[Voyager]] - The Voyager's a controversial muscle, sitting where it does right on the border between the the muscles and sedans, but with a 3.2L engine and light weapons, it's a joy to drive. A bit slippery offroad, it boasts a very tight turning radius and the largest killware space of any of the common muscles, but beware its lighter armor. One good setup uses twin [[Machine Gun]]s or [[Gatling Gun]]s to make a versatile interceptor with room for lots of spare ammo or a second gunner to carry home the loot. Drop the tire pressure and increase the length and stiffness a few points, and use it for hit and run attacks. For extra firepower, try a [[Rocket Launcher]]/[[Gatling Gun]] or a [[Micromissile Launcher]]/[[Medium Machine Gun]].

[[Vampire]] - It’s easy to see the rental [[Desert Striker]] as representative of the Vampire, even to take it for a spin, but the rental’s Standard Tyres cripple the Striker’s beautiful possibilities, and lead many to underestimate this beautiful interceptor. The Vampire drives like a [[Phoenix]] on steroids, but the increased responsiveness comes at the cost of 10 bulk. The [[Desert Striker]] build is almost overgunned, because with the [[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]], you don’t have room for a single reload with a gunner. Switching the HMG for an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], you make one of the best combat cars in Evan, because then you can fit in a gunner, a reload and a [[Light Rocket]]. This build is one I’ve used to solo-kill [[Poltergeist|Poltergeists]] and [[Mutant Bomber|Mutant Bombers]], and once scored three kills in a single scout. The Vampire truly shines with a 3.2 v8 under the hood, which lets you fit in a [[Medium Rocket Rack]].
On the other hand, the Vampire seems to be a bit more fragile than the [[Phoenix]], so use it with care.

[[Bullet]] - It’s easy to dismiss the Bullet as a Redneck Racer, since it is a Ford Fusion, the NASCAR car. But I’ve found the Bullet to be a surprisingly flexible hunter on the battlefield. It’s a fair sight faster than either the [[Phoenix]] or the [[Sunrise]], and very maneuverable. With a good driver, I feel like my Bullet is reading my mind, like it’ll do precisely what I ask it to, with a minimum of drifting. Low bulk is certainly an issue, but with a [[Medium Machine Gun]] and a [[Mini Rocket Pod]] or a [[Light Rocket]], the Bullet is a nasty little predator. Like the [[Vampire]], the Bullet truly shines with a V8 under the hood, which frees up space for more ammo or weaponry.

[[Buccaneer]] - The Bucky is one of the larger muscle cars, but it also has a slightly lower armor value. On the other hand, being able to fit a 5L engine, a MMG, and a gunner in makes it SPEEDY. Or you can fit in a 4L and free up 20 bulk for reloads, One-Shots, or even a secondary Gatling for your driver. I’ve seen a few people mount an [[Anti-Tank Gun]] in a Buccaneer, but that takes it out of the Muscle category and places it into a Sedan class, tactically, because there is NO WAY you can maintain speed and control while firing an ATG.

[[Flash]] - The Mini Muscle. With a 2L engine, it’s almost as fast as a 4L Phoenix, and it is so light and fast that it’s a joy to drive. The downside is, you have paper armor, not much of it, and you will have 40 bulk with a gunner. That’s enough for a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]], a reload, and a Light Rocket. I wouldn’t recommend mounting anything heavier than a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] on this chassis, it’s very susceptible to recoil, and extremely fragile.

[[Pike]] - The [[Pike]] is the [[Sunrise]]’s bigger, nastier brother. If you think a Sunrise is too bouncy, walk straight past this baby. Fire 1 shot from a [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]] and watch this thing bounce for 4 turns. Sitting still and getting shot will leave you bouncing wildly and struggling for traction and any ability of escape. Even under MML or MG fire you may find yourself stuck for 4-5 seconds hoping it doesn't roll. All that said, it drives over the rough stuff real well (with care) and is fast. Takes some time to get used to the handling (ghost)and tends to understeer heaps into a corner (especially if you fill its huge engine bay with motor) and oversteer once it does start to turn. Once you do get used to this though and drive accordingly, she's a dream to drive and the low-speed maneuverability is amazing. Reasonable armour. - Bastiel

[[Flail]] - The [[Flail]] has almost sedan-like bulk available and heavy armor. Well, it's more like driving a mini SUV than a musclecar depending on how you arm it, but for a musclecar, boy does it have a lot of armor and almost as much capacity as the [[Osprey]] - FireFly

I've found the Flail a very versatile car if used properly. It's easy to look at all that bulk and armor and think of it as a 'win button.' It isn't. Make a wrong move in the Flail, and you'll be lucky to live to regret it. With a 4L under the hood, its acceleration is substandard, and it really needs a 5L or better for optimal performance. Its maneuvering isn't bad, but like a lot of sedans, its best maneuvering happens under 30 MPH. Use it like a Phoenix or Sunrise, and your Flail will die. Use it as a heavy support car to back up your lighter muscles, and it will serve you very well.

Fully armoured up with B armour, the [[Flail]] weighs over half a tonne more than the smaller muscles, which on the upside allows you to mount some heavier weaponry, however whatever engine you mount, it's pretty slow at accelerating. Though, it doesn't stop accelerating, even when you're hitting 200mph+. With a 5LV8 under the hood (which you really need), you'll have room for a MMG/GG layout or something similiar with two reloads for the MMG, & one for the GG, which works very well if your driver has some gunnery skills. Handling wise, it's a big heavy muscle car so you can't expect much, though it doesn't do that badly. It does tend to get locked in a slide if you're running at speed trying to focus fire on a slow moving target, though the armour strength & points allows you to be a little "braver" than you would in any other muscle. Final note is that in close quarter combat, flooring the gas, leaving the handbrake on & fully turning the wheel lets' you turn 90 degrees plus in a single turn, which makes the [[Flail]] a very formidable chassis, though you really need a 5L or better otherwise it's far too slow. - Tez

The [[Flail]] also has a wide turning radius that should be accounted for. With a 3.2Lv8 and a HCR or Laser it makes a good sniper. - Tango

[[Osprey]] - It has decent handling, not the best, but there are worse. The main issue is that if you get locked into a slide, it can take some turns to get back to moving straight. The main strength lies in its huge capacity, with a crew of 2 and a 3.2lv8, you still have room for 110 bulk worth of weapons, for example, a [[Heavy Car Rifle|HCR]]/[[Heavy Machine Gun|HMG]] combo works surprisingly well, but the real fun with that is that it's the most heavily armed musclecar around, and kicks the living snot out of other muscles, if you can handle the weight... - FireFly

[[Roadrunner]] - It handles like a heavy Phoenix. It has the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it.
If you do find one, you`ll be pleasantly surprised at it`s armor capacity and bulk available. - JD Basher

[[Moray]] - No middle ground really, people seem to either love them or hate them. Morays are a bit pricey for something with less armour than a [[Phoenix|Pho,]] but they will take a 5LV8 unexposed, making them a speedy travel car.
They do VERY well with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Like the [[Sunrise]], they can be a bit drifty at high speeds, do not expect radical changes in direction, and this chassis can be quite unforgiving if you oversteer, though they rarely turtle.
There is, however, definitely a learning curve to overcome when using this chassis.
Expect to spin out and lose all of your momentum if you expect too much.

At slower speeds, such as when the dogfight has gone to hell, you can get a 90 degree turn out of this car, easily, assuming you have no major recoil happening from weapons fire, and a good bit more if you like using the handbrake. You can stay inside the turning arc of most NPC vehicles with ease, chewing away at them the whole time. As with all muscle cars, recoil can be an issue with heavier weapons.
Personally, after a good bit of trial and error, I have found that an [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Machine Gun|MG]] combo works very well. An [[Medium Machine Gun|MMG]]/[[Micromissile Launcher|MMLs]] combo is effective as well, but one must keep in mind the ammo limitations [[Micromissile Launcher|MML]] have.
As with any muscle car, DON'T STOP unless it's going to give you a BIG tactical advantage.
The [[Moray]] can be a bit more forgiving in slow-speed situations than other muscle cars due to its tight turning radius, but it's best not to get INTO that situation if you don't have to. -Rev. V

[[Corghette]] - A dead sexy little racer - the Corghette is closest in handling to a tighter [[Vampire]] with one major difference. On rough terrain, it's entirely possible to get the Corghette stuck nose-and-tail on terrain, with none of its tires in contact with the ground. If it doesn't get stuck, it's a very responsive and deadly car, with 5 more bulk than the [[Vampire]]. Like the [[Vampire]], the Corghette shines with a 3.2LV8 under the hood. Properly handled with an eye for terrain, the Corgy will serve you very well.

[[Category: Guides]]

Merc Runner

2012-04-07T01:19:00Z

JD:

{{VehicleDesign|
chassis=Mercenary|
engine=3.2L|
fueltank=15|
tyres=Offroad or Reinforced|
free_bulk=102|
weight=3486|
combat_rating=76|
armor_grade=B|
armor_fr=12|
armor_re=23|
armor_le=15|
armor_ri=15|
armor_to=5|
armor_bo=8|
}}

This sedan is an '''EXCELLENT''' car for those starting to make [[missions|mission]] runs between towns! With a 3.2L installed and a 15 unit fuel tank you have the capability to take up to 102 bulk missions and have the range to make it to the "Northern Triangle" towns of Somerset, Elmsfield and Gateway in Darkwind! Keep your armor minimal to save on the weight and you can outrun any enemy you encounter. Since the car is a bit slippery in the turns, anticipate the corners before you get to them and manage your speed accordingly.. SLOW down if you need to!...... Your 3L will accelerate nicely... If the enemy does not slow for the turns, they may make big mistakes trying to chase you.

Use 2 of these cars as separate squads and you can even take those 6 person taxi mission that can net you 40k or more on ONE mission!

[[Player Vehicle Designs|Back to List]]

[[Category: Player Vehicles]]

Merc Runner

2012-04-07T01:18:00Z

JD: added some content

{{VehicleDesign|
chassis=Mercenary|
engine=3.2L|
fueltank=15|
tyres=Offroad or Reinforced|
free_bulk=102|
weight=3486|
combat_rating=76|
armor_grade=B|
armor_fr=12|
armor_re=23|
armor_le=15|
armor_ri=15|
armor_to=5|
armor_bo=8|
}}

This sedan is an '''EXCELLENT''' car for those starting to make [[missions|mission]] runs between towns! With a 3.2L installed and a 15 unit fuel tank you have the capability to take up to 102 bulk missions and have the range to make it to the "Northern Triangle" towns of Somerset, Elmsfield and Gateway in Darkwind! Keep your armor minimal to save on the weight and you can outrun any enemy you encounter. Since the car is a bit slippery in the turns, anticipate the corners before you get to them and manage your speed accordingly.. SLOW down if you need to!...... Your 3L will accelerate nicely... If the enemy does not slow for the turns,they may make big mistakes trying to chase you.

Use 2 of these cars as separate squads and you can even take those 6 person taxi mission that can net you 40k or more on ONE mission!

[[Player Vehicle Designs|Back to List]]

[[Category: Player Vehicles]]

Merc Runner

2012-04-07T01:09:52Z

JD:

{{VehicleDesign|
chassis=Mercenary|
engine=3.2L|
fueltank=15|
tyres=Offroad or Reinforced|
free_bulk=102|
weight=3486|
combat_rating=76|
armor_grade=B|
armor_fr=12|
armor_re=23|
armor_le=15|
armor_ri=15|
armor_to=5|
armor_bo=8|
}}

This sedan is an '''EXCELLENT''' car for those starting to make [[missions|mission]] runs between towns! With a 3.2L installed and a 15 unit fuel tank you have the capability to take up to 102 bulk missions and have the range to make it to most towns in Darkwind! Keep your armor minimal to save on the weight and you can outrun any enemy you encounter.

Use 2 of these cars as separate squads and you can even take those 6 person taxi mission that can net you 40k or more on ONE mission!

[[Player Vehicle Designs|Back to List]]

[[Category: Player Vehicles]]

Merc Runner

2012-04-07T01:08:26Z

JD: changed free bulk (increase)

{{VehicleDesign|
chassis=Mercenary|
engine=3.2L|
fueltank=15|
tyres=Offroad or Reinforced|
free_bulk=102|
weight=3486|
combat_rating=76|
armor_grade=B|
armor_fr=12|
armor_re=23|
armor_le=15|
armor_ri=15|
armor_to=5|
armor_bo=8|
}}

This sedan is an '''EXCELLENT''' car for those starting to make [[missions|mission]] runs between towns! With a 3.2L installed and a 22 unit fuel tank you have the capability to take up to 98 bulk missions and have the range to make it to most towns in Darkwind! Keep your armor minimal to save on the weight and you can outrun any enemy you encounter.

Use 2 of these cars as seperate squads and you can even take those 6 person taxi mission that can net you 40k or more on ONE mission!

[[Player Vehicle Designs|Back to List]]

[[Category: Player Vehicles]]

Merc Runner

2012-04-07T01:07:04Z

JD: changed fuel tank size to reflect fuel usage change

{{VehicleDesign|
chassis=Mercenary|
engine=3.2L|
fueltank=15|
tyres=Offroad or Reinforced|
free_bulk=95|
weight=3486|
combat_rating=76|
armor_grade=B|
armor_fr=12|
armor_re=23|
armor_le=15|
armor_ri=15|
armor_to=5|
armor_bo=8|
}}

This sedan is an '''EXCELLENT''' car for those starting to make [[missions|mission]] runs between towns! With a 3.2L installed and a 22 unit fuel tank you have the capability to take up to 98 bulk missions and have the range to make it to most towns in Darkwind! Keep your armor minimal to save on the weight and you can outrun any enemy you encounter.

Use 2 of these cars as seperate squads and you can even take those 6 person taxi mission that can net you 40k or more on ONE mission!

[[Player Vehicle Designs|Back to List]]

[[Category: Player Vehicles]]

Darkwind Marshal

2011-10-03T22:41:58Z

JD: /* Powers and Perks */

A Darkwind Marshal, or just ''Marshal'' is a player who serves as an ambassador of the game. Marshals are '''not''' game masters, or system admins, they are just players who volunteer their time to help new players learn the game.

They do, however, have some small, moderator-type responsibilities when they are in the Game Lobby or Forums. For the most part, these involve trying to keep the conversations civil, limiting the amount of swearing and offensive language, and limiting any 'chat spam' that crops up.

== Powers and Perks ==
In support of their ''Lobby Moderator'' duties, Marshals can:
* Mute players for various amounts of time
* Kick players out of the Lobby
* Edit forum posts partially or in their entirety

In support of their ''Game Ambassador'' duties, Marshals:
* Have unlimited timeouts during events (regular players are limited to 3)(note:) Marshals can use their unlimited timeouts even if they are only spectating an event if all competitors have expended their time-out allotment of 3. Marshals may help an event with timeouts if there is a '''REAL LIFE''' necessity for their action to be asked for.
* Receive 5 extra gang members that are tied to Somerset
** These members allow the Marshal to use his 'real' gang to play as he sees fit, and still have characters available to help new players in the Somerset region

== Duties ==
Marshals are subscribed players of Darkwind who have taken an oath to the responsibility of helping any new player learn how to play and conquer the steep learning curve that Darkwind provides.

They will also take new players out into the wilderness to allow the new player a 'relatively' safe experience with the hazards of scouting the wild roadways outside of the more protected towns and relatively safe town events. It should be noted that while scouting with a Marshal or any 'Veteran' for that matter increases the possibility of survival in any combat situation, the outcome is '''NOT''' a certainty! Scouting with Marshals and Veterans in general '''DOES NOT''' guarantee your survival!

Marshals can be identified in the client Lobby and the forums by asterisks bracketing their name. ie: *player*.

Marshals also have limited moderation abilities in both the client Lobby and the Forums.

Any Forum post can be edited by any Marshal if the content is found to be outwardly offensive either by derogatory language or intentional personal verbal attacks on any player.
In the client Lobby, there are 2 moderation sanctions that can be imposed on any player.

'''(1)Any player can be muted.''' (They cannot post anything in the lobby to be viewed by others. They can still play any racing or wilderness events).

'''(2)Any player can be booted.''' (the player is removed from the server altogether. They cannot enter the lobby at all nor can they play any racing or wilderness events).

The sanctioned player may still access the Darkwind web site and forums if they have been 'muted' or 'booted'.

These 2 moderation sanctions are set timed events against the offending player. Depending on the amount of time the Marshal deems the infraction allows. It could be a time frame from 1 minute for minor offenses, to many hours for the most grievous infractions.

These sanctions on players are NOT often used and there will, more than likely, be more than one Marshal involved before these punishments are used.

[[Category: New Player]]

Top Ten Scouting Tips

2011-10-03T22:29:42Z

JD: /* Watch your own back */

= Top Ten Scouting Tips =

==Watch your own back==
AKA: '''CYOA''' (Cover Your Own A**)
Always bring your own backup (a second or third vehicle). Too many times on group scouts other players focus only upon themselves and the enemies they are fighting and will do nothing to help if you get in trouble. Scouting alone with only one vehicle is especially stupid, since you have no tactical options – all the enemies drive straight towards you. If you violate this rule and insist on scouting with only one vehicle, scout '''only''' with players you know will bail you out if you get in trouble.

==Do not stop your vehicle(s) in the open==
Open terrain is lethal. Always make a stand on obstructed ground to break enemy formations or on top of a small hill or cliff. Anything to avoid having the enemy swarm you. No matter how good your gang members are or what you are driving, no vehicle can fight when it is being pegged by
3 or more heavy weapons – the stress is too great for accurate fire AND your vehicle might even flip. Once you get pinned down by weapons fire you are dead. In a worst-case scenario where there is little to no cover try to run until some of the enemy auto-escapes at 500m.

==Always assume there will be a return/second encounter==
Do not loot vehicles that you don't want to fight in. Looted vehicle add their CR to the number of enemy vehicles encountered on a return. Vehicles with engines less than 75%, that have their main guns destroyed, or have more than one armor facing breached are death traps. Do not make exceptions for rare vehicles, leave that 8% 3.2Lv8, it's not worth it. Greed kills. If you violate this rule (and you will), then you must prepare to ditch your loot vehicle at the start of the return. Place your loot vehicle TO THE LEFT of the vehicle you want your driver to escape to (because the steering wheel in DW is ON THE RIGHT). Slow both vehicles down to 0 mph. Then exit the loot vehicle. If you do it right you can immediately board your own vehicle without exposing your gang member to weapons fire – this is the 'loot car shuffle'. Practice this.

==Don't forget the 'Surrender All' option==
If solo scouting (not the same as scouting with one vehicle, just scouting by yourself) remember you can always select 'surrender all' if you are about to lose a valuable gang member. Of course this depends on who the gang member is – if it's a new recruit then who cares – but if it's your leader surrender that apache – you can always get another but it takes months and even years to build up a good leader. This is why solo scouting is safer, because you don't have this option on group scouts unless everyone agrees. There is no excuse for losing your three best gang members on a bad scout. DO NOT GET ATTACHED TO VEHICLES, DO NOT CONTINUE A BAD SCOUT TO GET 'REVENGE'.

==Cross-train==
Focus on gaining as many specializations as fast as possible. Most skills give you a specialization in blocks of 50. So if your large-gunner is at 67 skill and is only training one point a week during the training hit, then he is probably close to his maximum skill level. Switch his training to gunnery or hand gunner until you hit 50, then switch to something else. Always try to have a first-aid specialization character in a squad – you can quickly cross-train first aid in EL. Always have a Motivator in a town with more than three gang members – this improves their training over time.

==Destroy rocket vehicles first==
Destroy vehicles like the Mutant Marauder and Scorpion first - getting hit by twin RLs can kill by making your vehicle unresponsive and preventing you from returning fire.
Be scared of heavy rockets – a heavy rocket can kill you in one shot. Ignore CGLs till the end – they are no threat to a well-built vehicle.

==Always fire until an enemy vehicle is reduced to 0 CR==
You can read an enemy vehicle's CR by hovering over it with your pointer. Too many needless deaths occur when a player dismisses a 'killed' enemy vehicle, only to have a heavy-rocket come out of 'nowhere' and kill him. Rare loot is the exception – save them for last and kill/red as many other enemies as you can – this demoralizes the remaining enemy force. Being struck by weapons fire is also demoralizing – so if you want to loot that rare chassis pay attention to its remaining armor and be careful not to breach it – pepper it on all sides until it demoralizes. You may need to hold fire for a turn.

==Always equip hand weapons on all characters==
Also, upgrade to SMGs or Rifles when possible. Make sure each character has 2 hand weapon reloads. Do not travel without hand weapons.

==Don't forget to attempt to truce an encounter you wish to avoid==
You get a chance to truce after you see the initial enemy placement. If ambushed by a superior force try to truce. If you are attacked on a return and your vehicles are too beat up to fight attempt to truce. A good scout can save your entire squad.

==Always pack reloads==
Try for at least 2 per weapon, 3 to be safe (muscle cars and rocket racks are the exception). Anything less requires a dedicated ammo carrier. If you do this don't forget to distribute ammo from your ammo carrier at the end of combat. Let enemies escape and end combat if you are out of reloads, since this means the next encounter will probably kill you (obviously you don't care about preserving ammo if it's a return or gates encounter). Get in the habit of always reloading weapons on the loot screen for all vehicles. If you need ideas for vehicle builds spy on the garage of a vet, and see which vehicles have 'renowned' status and higher. These are the designs to imitate, because they are battle tested and proven.

[[Category:New Player]]
[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Scouting]]

Top Ten Scouting Tips

2011-10-03T22:28:43Z

JD: /* Top Ten Scouting Tips */

= Top Ten Scouting Tips =

==Watch your own back==
AKA:'''CYOA''' (Cover Your Own A**)
Always bring your own backup (a second or third vehicle). Too many times on group scouts other players focus only upon themselves and the enemies they are fighting and will do nothing to help if you get in trouble. Scouting alone with only one vehicle is especially stupid, since you have no tactical options – all the enemies drive straight towards you. If you violate this rule and insist on scouting with only one vehicle, scout '''only''' with players you know will bail you out if you get in trouble.

==Do not stop your vehicle(s) in the open==
Open terrain is lethal. Always make a stand on obstructed ground to break enemy formations or on top of a small hill or cliff. Anything to avoid having the enemy swarm you. No matter how good your gang members are or what you are driving, no vehicle can fight when it is being pegged by
3 or more heavy weapons – the stress is too great for accurate fire AND your vehicle might even flip. Once you get pinned down by weapons fire you are dead. In a worst-case scenario where there is little to no cover try to run until some of the enemy auto-escapes at 500m.

==Always assume there will be a return/second encounter==
Do not loot vehicles that you don't want to fight in. Looted vehicle add their CR to the number of enemy vehicles encountered on a return. Vehicles with engines less than 75%, that have their main guns destroyed, or have more than one armor facing breached are death traps. Do not make exceptions for rare vehicles, leave that 8% 3.2Lv8, it's not worth it. Greed kills. If you violate this rule (and you will), then you must prepare to ditch your loot vehicle at the start of the return. Place your loot vehicle TO THE LEFT of the vehicle you want your driver to escape to (because the steering wheel in DW is ON THE RIGHT). Slow both vehicles down to 0 mph. Then exit the loot vehicle. If you do it right you can immediately board your own vehicle without exposing your gang member to weapons fire – this is the 'loot car shuffle'. Practice this.

==Don't forget the 'Surrender All' option==
If solo scouting (not the same as scouting with one vehicle, just scouting by yourself) remember you can always select 'surrender all' if you are about to lose a valuable gang member. Of course this depends on who the gang member is – if it's a new recruit then who cares – but if it's your leader surrender that apache – you can always get another but it takes months and even years to build up a good leader. This is why solo scouting is safer, because you don't have this option on group scouts unless everyone agrees. There is no excuse for losing your three best gang members on a bad scout. DO NOT GET ATTACHED TO VEHICLES, DO NOT CONTINUE A BAD SCOUT TO GET 'REVENGE'.

==Cross-train==
Focus on gaining as many specializations as fast as possible. Most skills give you a specialization in blocks of 50. So if your large-gunner is at 67 skill and is only training one point a week during the training hit, then he is probably close to his maximum skill level. Switch his training to gunnery or hand gunner until you hit 50, then switch to something else. Always try to have a first-aid specialization character in a squad – you can quickly cross-train first aid in EL. Always have a Motivator in a town with more than three gang members – this improves their training over time.

==Destroy rocket vehicles first==
Destroy vehicles like the Mutant Marauder and Scorpion first - getting hit by twin RLs can kill by making your vehicle unresponsive and preventing you from returning fire.
Be scared of heavy rockets – a heavy rocket can kill you in one shot. Ignore CGLs till the end – they are no threat to a well-built vehicle.

==Always fire until an enemy vehicle is reduced to 0 CR==
You can read an enemy vehicle's CR by hovering over it with your pointer. Too many needless deaths occur when a player dismisses a 'killed' enemy vehicle, only to have a heavy-rocket come out of 'nowhere' and kill him. Rare loot is the exception – save them for last and kill/red as many other enemies as you can – this demoralizes the remaining enemy force. Being struck by weapons fire is also demoralizing – so if you want to loot that rare chassis pay attention to its remaining armor and be careful not to breach it – pepper it on all sides until it demoralizes. You may need to hold fire for a turn.

==Always equip hand weapons on all characters==
Also, upgrade to SMGs or Rifles when possible. Make sure each character has 2 hand weapon reloads. Do not travel without hand weapons.

==Don't forget to attempt to truce an encounter you wish to avoid==
You get a chance to truce after you see the initial enemy placement. If ambushed by a superior force try to truce. If you are attacked on a return and your vehicles are too beat up to fight attempt to truce. A good scout can save your entire squad.

==Always pack reloads==
Try for at least 2 per weapon, 3 to be safe (muscle cars and rocket racks are the exception). Anything less requires a dedicated ammo carrier. If you do this don't forget to distribute ammo from your ammo carrier at the end of combat. Let enemies escape and end combat if you are out of reloads, since this means the next encounter will probably kill you (obviously you don't care about preserving ammo if it's a return or gates encounter). Get in the habit of always reloading weapons on the loot screen for all vehicles. If you need ideas for vehicle builds spy on the garage of a vet, and see which vehicles have 'renowned' status and higher. These are the designs to imitate, because they are battle tested and proven.

[[Category:New Player]]
[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Scouting]]

Top Ten Scouting Tips

2011-10-03T22:28:05Z

JD: /* Watch your own back */

= Top Ten Scouting Tips =

==Watch your own back== AKA:'''CYOA''' (Cover Your Own A**)
Always bring your own backup (a second or third vehicle). Too many times on group scouts other players focus only upon themselves and the enemies they are fighting and will do nothing to help if you get in trouble. Scouting alone with only one vehicle is especially stupid, since you have no tactical options – all the enemies drive straight towards you. If you violate this rule and insist on scouting with only one vehicle, scout '''only''' with players you know will bail you out if you get in trouble.

==Do not stop your vehicle(s) in the open==
Open terrain is lethal. Always make a stand on obstructed ground to break enemy formations or on top of a small hill or cliff. Anything to avoid having the enemy swarm you. No matter how good your gang members are or what you are driving, no vehicle can fight when it is being pegged by
3 or more heavy weapons – the stress is too great for accurate fire AND your vehicle might even flip. Once you get pinned down by weapons fire you are dead. In a worst-case scenario where there is little to no cover try to run until some of the enemy auto-escapes at 500m.

==Always assume there will be a return/second encounter==
Do not loot vehicles that you don't want to fight in. Looted vehicle add their CR to the number of enemy vehicles encountered on a return. Vehicles with engines less than 75%, that have their main guns destroyed, or have more than one armor facing breached are death traps. Do not make exceptions for rare vehicles, leave that 8% 3.2Lv8, it's not worth it. Greed kills. If you violate this rule (and you will), then you must prepare to ditch your loot vehicle at the start of the return. Place your loot vehicle TO THE LEFT of the vehicle you want your driver to escape to (because the steering wheel in DW is ON THE RIGHT). Slow both vehicles down to 0 mph. Then exit the loot vehicle. If you do it right you can immediately board your own vehicle without exposing your gang member to weapons fire – this is the 'loot car shuffle'. Practice this.

==Don't forget the 'Surrender All' option==
If solo scouting (not the same as scouting with one vehicle, just scouting by yourself) remember you can always select 'surrender all' if you are about to lose a valuable gang member. Of course this depends on who the gang member is – if it's a new recruit then who cares – but if it's your leader surrender that apache – you can always get another but it takes months and even years to build up a good leader. This is why solo scouting is safer, because you don't have this option on group scouts unless everyone agrees. There is no excuse for losing your three best gang members on a bad scout. DO NOT GET ATTACHED TO VEHICLES, DO NOT CONTINUE A BAD SCOUT TO GET 'REVENGE'.

==Cross-train==
Focus on gaining as many specializations as fast as possible. Most skills give you a specialization in blocks of 50. So if your large-gunner is at 67 skill and is only training one point a week during the training hit, then he is probably close to his maximum skill level. Switch his training to gunnery or hand gunner until you hit 50, then switch to something else. Always try to have a first-aid specialization character in a squad – you can quickly cross-train first aid in EL. Always have a Motivator in a town with more than three gang members – this improves their training over time.

==Destroy rocket vehicles first==
Destroy vehicles like the Mutant Marauder and Scorpion first - getting hit by twin RLs can kill by making your vehicle unresponsive and preventing you from returning fire.
Be scared of heavy rockets – a heavy rocket can kill you in one shot. Ignore CGLs till the end – they are no threat to a well-built vehicle.

==Always fire until an enemy vehicle is reduced to 0 CR==
You can read an enemy vehicle's CR by hovering over it with your pointer. Too many needless deaths occur when a player dismisses a 'killed' enemy vehicle, only to have a heavy-rocket come out of 'nowhere' and kill him. Rare loot is the exception – save them for last and kill/red as many other enemies as you can – this demoralizes the remaining enemy force. Being struck by weapons fire is also demoralizing – so if you want to loot that rare chassis pay attention to its remaining armor and be careful not to breach it – pepper it on all sides until it demoralizes. You may need to hold fire for a turn.

==Always equip hand weapons on all characters==
Also, upgrade to SMGs or Rifles when possible. Make sure each character has 2 hand weapon reloads. Do not travel without hand weapons.

==Don't forget to attempt to truce an encounter you wish to avoid==
You get a chance to truce after you see the initial enemy placement. If ambushed by a superior force try to truce. If you are attacked on a return and your vehicles are too beat up to fight attempt to truce. A good scout can save your entire squad.

==Always pack reloads==
Try for at least 2 per weapon, 3 to be safe (muscle cars and rocket racks are the exception). Anything less requires a dedicated ammo carrier. If you do this don't forget to distribute ammo from your ammo carrier at the end of combat. Let enemies escape and end combat if you are out of reloads, since this means the next encounter will probably kill you (obviously you don't care about preserving ammo if it's a return or gates encounter). Get in the habit of always reloading weapons on the loot screen for all vehicles. If you need ideas for vehicle builds spy on the garage of a vet, and see which vehicles have 'renowned' status and higher. These are the designs to imitate, because they are battle tested and proven.

[[Category:New Player]]
[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Scouting]]

Alpha Junkers' Driving Tips

2011-02-27T01:58:56Z

JD: /* Introduction to Racing */

(by Alpha Junkers)

All right! So you want to score on the race track? Want to gain some fame as the 'Racer X' equivalent of Darkwind? Then listen closely, for these are tips that will help you win in a race against unfair odds.

== Introduction to Racing ==
So, you may be a veteran racer, or you may be a newbie. It doesn't matter. I've seen newbies who can beat me at racing, and people who've played for a long time and still not excel in it. It doesn't matter.

What matters is how '''YOU''' drive. Winning is everything, losing is nothing... Second place is the first '''LOSER'''!

The difference between winning or losing a race can be either $3600, or your best driver. Trust me, I've seen it happen a lot of times.

Racing or scouting in Darkwind is not a game like "Need for Speed". It requires precise calculations, planning and balls of steel. But fret not, this guide will make you a racer. There will be terms used here that I have coined. I take no credit for inventing them, there have been players way before I started out who've been using tricks like these, but I prefer using my own terminology for easier reference.

Without further ado, read on for the tips.

== Common Tips ==
* '''Know your race track'''. If you're not good at it, don't expect to get top 3 on your first try. Different terrains handle very differently. You might be able to drift well on well-paved roads, like the Northern Desert Racing Circuit, but the terrain on Somerset Junkyard Track 1 is a totally different animal. Get accustomed to the track, learn how to accurately traverse hairpin corners, before you try to pull a 120mph powerslide on that tricky turn.
* '''Do not be afraid to brake'''. You're better off losing first place, than your driver's life. Don't use the handbrake unless absolutely necessary though. It cuts off a lot of your speed, and you will find it is slower to gain acceleration when you release the handbrake. Of course, floor the accelerator where possible, but in the event your car's spinning out of control, just swallow some of that pride and hit the brakes for a turn or two.
* '''Avoid sliding and counter-steering repeatedly'''. Don't get me wrong, I encourage powersliding as far as possible (see '''Advanced tips''' below). But, if unnecessary, don't keep sliding and counter-steering. You will lose speed. The straighter your steering is, the faster you will go.
* '''Go slow if you predict a pile-up of cars'''. In certain maps, like [[Somerset Rally Circuit]], or more commonly known as ''Figure 8 track'', which I also like to fondly call ''Satan's track'', if you can sense an impending pile-up of cars, go slow. Better to risk losing pole position, than to completely throw out the prize money.
* '''Slipstream'''. I don't know what this idea is about only slipstream specs being able to slipstream, but apparently I've been gaining some speed too on my non-slipstream specs. (''Slip-streaming affects ALL cars.... If you have a driver with the Slip-steamer special, it adds to your cars speed in the event.'')--[[User:JD|JD]] 00:54, 27 February 2011 (UTC) Anyway, if you think you can outrun that guy in front of you without slip-streaming, by all means go ahead. However, if your driver's driving skill just isn't that fantastic, slipstream a bit before trying to overtake the car in front.
* '''Don't powerslide when unnecessary'''. I know it's cool to drift and powerslide, but if you don't know the appropriate angles-of-approach in the track well enough, you're liable to end up powersliding too early, or drifting out of the track.
* '''Predict your opponents'''. Can't stress enough on this. There is no way of telling where your opponents will move. Sometimes, a little bit of psychology can push the races into your advantage. Other times, you just have to figure out where your adversary is going.

== Advanced tips ==
* '''Buffer''': During hairpin turns and sharp corners, if an opponent is between you and a wall (or basically, the opposite side of where you are supposed to turn), use this to your advantage. As you powerslide, he will act as a cushion to buffer the rest of your force. You ''may'' take some damage in your armor, but you are less likely to smash into the wall, while at the same time maintaining an even greater speed than before. The best way to accomplish this trick is to maintain as close side-by-side proximity to your opponent as possible before powersliding, so you don't lose armor, and you still can latch on to him for buffering support.
* '''Tail-twisting/Head-twisting''': This is a cheap trick. The idea is to try to stay on either side of opponent, and your tail must either be facing his head, or your head facing his tail. From there, turn your car accordingly so you distort his sense of direction. For example, if your tail is at his head, and you are on his left, turning left will cause him to veer right (assuming he is going straight). Likewise, if your head is at his tail, and you are on his left, turning right will cause him to oversteer too much to the left. This trick takes practice, but in races where cars are moving very fast, this is a good tactic to use to disorientate your opponent. It is, however, a very dirty trick, so don't do it too often if you don't want to make a public enemy of yourself.
* '''Momentum''': Use momentum to give yourself some additional speed on the last turn, or wherever you think possible. Momentum is the turning force when you attempt to powerslide. It increases the speed at which your car moves in a direction. The greater you can hold the momentum, the farther you can actually push your car. Just be aware that this causes over-steering very easily, so use it only when necessary.
* '''Damage speed boost''': dangerous trick to use during Death Races, but IMO a good tactic nonetheless. The trick is to get the enemy to fire at you, so you propel a few more MPH. Lighter vehicles work best with this trick, and naturally heavy guns are likely to push an opponent further. Also of note with heavy weapons is that they slow you down e.g. HMG or HGG. Turn a strong flank (or rear) towards an enemy that is firing at you to get that extra oomph in speed. Rear firing weapoms will also increase your speed. Take care when and where you shoot your weapons! The boost in speed you get from the recoil of rear weapons may make you lose control in the corner you are trying to turn through. (Dropped weapons have no effect on speed or heading due to recoil.)--[[User:JD|JD]] 01:02, 27 February 2011 (UTC)
* '''Speed is LIFE!''': In most combats you will be moving at medium speed (20/40 mph). If you find yourself in a situation where you are taking more shots than you are giving.... '''GET OUT OF DODGE AND MANEUVER!''' Use the terrain to block incoming shots if possible and try for a kill shot when you can. Running away from a lost fight is not considered cowardice... It's considered smart! --[[User:JD|JD]] 08:58, 20 February 2011 (UTC)

[[Category: Guides]]

Alpha Junkers' Driving Tips

2011-02-27T01:58:07Z

JD: /* Introduction to Racing */

(by Alpha Junkers)

All right! So you want to score on the race track? Want to gain some fame as the 'Racer X' equivalent of Darkwind? Then listen closely, for these are tips that will help you win in a race against unfair odds.

== Introduction to Racing ==
So, you may be a veteran racer, or you may be a newbie. It doesn't matter. I've seen newbies who can beat me at racing, and people who've played for a long time and still not excel in it. It doesn't matter.

What matters is how '''YOU''' drive. Winning is everything, losing is nothing... Second place is the first '''LOSER'''!

The difference between winning or losing a race can be either $3600, or your best driver. Trust me, I've seen it happen a lot of times.

Racing in Darkwind is not a game like "Need for Speed". It requires precise calculations, planning and balls of steel. But fret not, this guide will make you a racer. There will be terms used here that I have coined. I take no credit for inventing them, there have been players way before I started out who've been using tricks like these, but I prefer using my own terminology for easier reference.

Without further ado, read on for the tips.

== Common Tips ==
* '''Know your race track'''. If you're not good at it, don't expect to get top 3 on your first try. Different terrains handle very differently. You might be able to drift well on well-paved roads, like the Northern Desert Racing Circuit, but the terrain on Somerset Junkyard Track 1 is a totally different animal. Get accustomed to the track, learn how to accurately traverse hairpin corners, before you try to pull a 120mph powerslide on that tricky turn.
* '''Do not be afraid to brake'''. You're better off losing first place, than your driver's life. Don't use the handbrake unless absolutely necessary though. It cuts off a lot of your speed, and you will find it is slower to gain acceleration when you release the handbrake. Of course, floor the accelerator where possible, but in the event your car's spinning out of control, just swallow some of that pride and hit the brakes for a turn or two.
* '''Avoid sliding and counter-steering repeatedly'''. Don't get me wrong, I encourage powersliding as far as possible (see '''Advanced tips''' below). But, if unnecessary, don't keep sliding and counter-steering. You will lose speed. The straighter your steering is, the faster you will go.
* '''Go slow if you predict a pile-up of cars'''. In certain maps, like [[Somerset Rally Circuit]], or more commonly known as ''Figure 8 track'', which I also like to fondly call ''Satan's track'', if you can sense an impending pile-up of cars, go slow. Better to risk losing pole position, than to completely throw out the prize money.
* '''Slipstream'''. I don't know what this idea is about only slipstream specs being able to slipstream, but apparently I've been gaining some speed too on my non-slipstream specs. (''Slip-streaming affects ALL cars.... If you have a driver with the Slip-steamer special, it adds to your cars speed in the event.'')--[[User:JD|JD]] 00:54, 27 February 2011 (UTC) Anyway, if you think you can outrun that guy in front of you without slip-streaming, by all means go ahead. However, if your driver's driving skill just isn't that fantastic, slipstream a bit before trying to overtake the car in front.
* '''Don't powerslide when unnecessary'''. I know it's cool to drift and powerslide, but if you don't know the appropriate angles-of-approach in the track well enough, you're liable to end up powersliding too early, or drifting out of the track.
* '''Predict your opponents'''. Can't stress enough on this. There is no way of telling where your opponents will move. Sometimes, a little bit of psychology can push the races into your advantage. Other times, you just have to figure out where your adversary is going.

== Advanced tips ==
* '''Buffer''': During hairpin turns and sharp corners, if an opponent is between you and a wall (or basically, the opposite side of where you are supposed to turn), use this to your advantage. As you powerslide, he will act as a cushion to buffer the rest of your force. You ''may'' take some damage in your armor, but you are less likely to smash into the wall, while at the same time maintaining an even greater speed than before. The best way to accomplish this trick is to maintain as close side-by-side proximity to your opponent as possible before powersliding, so you don't lose armor, and you still can latch on to him for buffering support.
* '''Tail-twisting/Head-twisting''': This is a cheap trick. The idea is to try to stay on either side of opponent, and your tail must either be facing his head, or your head facing his tail. From there, turn your car accordingly so you distort his sense of direction. For example, if your tail is at his head, and you are on his left, turning left will cause him to veer right (assuming he is going straight). Likewise, if your head is at his tail, and you are on his left, turning right will cause him to oversteer too much to the left. This trick takes practice, but in races where cars are moving very fast, this is a good tactic to use to disorientate your opponent. It is, however, a very dirty trick, so don't do it too often if you don't want to make a public enemy of yourself.
* '''Momentum''': Use momentum to give yourself some additional speed on the last turn, or wherever you think possible. Momentum is the turning force when you attempt to powerslide. It increases the speed at which your car moves in a direction. The greater you can hold the momentum, the farther you can actually push your car. Just be aware that this causes over-steering very easily, so use it only when necessary.
* '''Damage speed boost''': dangerous trick to use during Death Races, but IMO a good tactic nonetheless. The trick is to get the enemy to fire at you, so you propel a few more MPH. Lighter vehicles work best with this trick, and naturally heavy guns are likely to push an opponent further. Also of note with heavy weapons is that they slow you down e.g. HMG or HGG. Turn a strong flank (or rear) towards an enemy that is firing at you to get that extra oomph in speed. Rear firing weapoms will also increase your speed. Take care when and where you shoot your weapons! The boost in speed you get from the recoil of rear weapons may make you lose control in the corner you are trying to turn through. (Dropped weapons have no effect on speed or heading due to recoil.)--[[User:JD|JD]] 01:02, 27 February 2011 (UTC)
* '''Speed is LIFE!''': In most combats you will be moving at medium speed (20/40 mph). If you find yourself in a situation where you are taking more shots than you are giving.... '''GET OUT OF DODGE AND MANEUVER!''' Use the terrain to block incoming shots if possible and try for a kill shot when you can. Running away from a lost fight is not considered cowardice... It's considered smart! --[[User:JD|JD]] 08:58, 20 February 2011 (UTC)

[[Category: Guides]]

Somerset Rally Circuit

2011-02-27T01:45:51Z

JD: Added SS Rally track description

This is one of two true `figure-8` tracks in Evan. Coming off the starting line the cars are channeled into a right-turn, downhill canyon. Trading paint and dented armor are normal right after the start of any race here. You may even be forced up one of the canyon walls by other racers!

This leads to a long, downhill straight that crosses the `figure-8` portion of the track. Then comes a '''VERY''' tight 180 degree hairpin left-hand turn. Your 100+ mph entry speed is scrubbed off to about 40/60 mph after you exit the hairpin.

'''Now comes the fun part!'''

Crossing the `figure-8` section '''just after the start of the race''' is not too much of a problem as most of the racers are bottle-necked at the last turn.

The '''REAL''' problem comes later in the race when the pack is spread out. 4 lap races become real nail biters when you cross this section of the track.

After crossing the danger point, a short straight stretch allows good acceleration into the true Canyon of this map.

The Canyon is a 90 degree left turn that is squeezed down to about 2 car widths making this a genuine hazard in itself. The sides of the Canyon are unforgiving, rough and will tear your car to shreds if an opponent bumps you up the walls here.

This turn exits onto a relatively flat and wide stretch of road but the racing line will not allow you to run a `middle-of-the-road` racing line because of an uneven and insidious half-hair-pin right hand turn to come.

A LARGE hill fills your windscreen just as you start the right-hander. DO NOT misjudge this corner! If you slide up the hill you will drop behind and be caught behind the long concrete barriers placed just past the turn apex. These barriers have also cost many gangers their lives after being bumped into them by other racers.

Once past the barriers through the sweeping right turn, you come to the `''switch-back''`.

What looks like a simple, quick right-left drift is made much more difficult by the bank of the turns to the outside of the corners and a slight hill after the first turn. This small hill makes your ride light with less traction on the exit of the chicane.

This leads to a slight uphill easy right turn to the start/finish line. (It would be '''VERY''' rare to have a one lap race here.) You can gain LOTS of speed up to the start/finish posts but you should be wary of your speed as you get to the first canyon described earlier. Your higher speed here can make you vulnerable to a "hip-check-bump" from an opponent forcing you up the wall on your left.

By now the pack should be spread out enough to give you some concern about the cross-over you have to maneuver through.....

'''Good Luck!... You`ll need it!'''

Many Somerset citizens claim that this track is the work of the devil. The Somerset Rally Circuit has been responsible for most drivers` demise, be it in Deathraces or normal races. Even under the control of professional racers, cars often end up smashing one another near the starting checkpoint, due to the way the track is designed.

Nevertheless, many still attempt to race here - whether they do it for the thrill/excitement, or to attempt never-before-seen stunts involving explosions and splinters, this still remains one of the more popular tracks in Somerset.

Alpha Junkers' Driving Tips

2011-02-27T01:02:38Z

JD: /* Advanced tips */ added to damage speed boost

(by Alpha Junkers)

All right! So you want to score on the race track? Want to gain some fame as the 'Racer X' equivalent of Darkwind? Then listen closely, for these are tips that will help you win in a race against unfair odds.

== Introduction to Racing ==
So, you may be a veteran racer, or you may be a newbie. It doesn't matter. I've seen newbies who can beat me at racing, and people who've played for a long time and still not excel in it. It doesn't matter.

What matters is how '''YOU''' drive. Winning is everything, losing is nothing... Second place is the first '''LOSER'''!

The difference between winning or losing a race can be either $3600, or your best driver. Trust me, I've seen it happen a lot of times.

Racing in Darkwind is not Need for Speed. It requires precise calculations, planning and balls of steel. But fret not, this guide will make you a racer. There will be terms used here that I have coined. I take no credit for inventing them, there have been players way before I started out who've been using tricks like these, but I prefer using my own terminology for easier reference.

Without further ado, read on for the tips.

== Common Tips ==
* '''Know your race track'''. If you're not good at it, don't expect to get top 3 on your first try. Different terrains handle very differently. You might be able to drift well on well-paved roads, like the Northern Desert Racing Circuit, but the terrain on Somerset Junkyard Track 1 is a totally different animal. Get accustomed to the track, learn how to accurately traverse hairpin corners, before you try to pull a 120mph powerslide on that tricky turn.
* '''Do not be afraid to brake'''. You're better off losing first place, than your driver's life. Don't use the handbrake unless absolutely necessary though. It cuts off a lot of your speed, and you will find it is slower to gain acceleration when you release the handbrake. Of course, floor the accelerator where possible, but in the event your car's spinning out of control, just swallow some of that pride and hit the brakes for a turn or two.
* '''Avoid sliding and counter-steering repeatedly'''. Don't get me wrong, I encourage powersliding as far as possible (see '''Advanced tips''' below). But, if unnecessary, don't keep sliding and counter-steering. You will lose speed. The straighter your steering is, the faster you will go.
* '''Go slow if you predict a pile-up of cars'''. In certain maps, like [[Somerset Rally Circuit]], or more commonly known as ''Figure 8 track'', which I also like to fondly call ''Satan's track'', if you can sense an impending pile-up of cars, go slow. Better to risk losing pole position, than to completely throw out the prize money.
* '''Slipstream'''. I don't know what this idea is about only slipstream specs being able to slipstream, but apparently I've been gaining some speed too on my non-slipstream specs. (''Slip-streaming affects ALL cars.... If you have a driver with the Slip-steamer special, it adds to your cars speed in the event.'')--[[User:JD|JD]] 00:54, 27 February 2011 (UTC) Anyway, if you think you can outrun that guy in front of you without slip-streaming, by all means go ahead. However, if your driver's driving skill just isn't that fantastic, slipstream a bit before trying to overtake the car in front.
* '''Don't powerslide when unnecessary'''. I know it's cool to drift and powerslide, but if you don't know the appropriate angles-of-approach in the track well enough, you're liable to end up powersliding too early, or drifting out of the track.
* '''Predict your opponents'''. Can't stress enough on this. There is no way of telling where your opponents will move. Sometimes, a little bit of psychology can push the races into your advantage. Other times, you just have to figure out where your adversary is going.

== Advanced tips ==
* '''Buffer''': During hairpin turns and sharp corners, if an opponent is between you and a wall (or basically, the opposite side of where you are supposed to turn), use this to your advantage. As you powerslide, he will act as a cushion to buffer the rest of your force. You ''may'' take some damage in your armor, but you are less likely to smash into the wall, while at the same time maintaining an even greater speed than before. The best way to accomplish this trick is to maintain as close side-by-side proximity to your opponent as possible before powersliding, so you don't lose armor, and you still can latch on to him for buffering support.
* '''Tail-twisting/Head-twisting''': This is a cheap trick. The idea is to try to stay on either side of opponent, and your tail must either be facing his head, or your head facing his tail. From there, turn your car accordingly so you distort his sense of direction. For example, if your tail is at his head, and you are on his left, turning left will cause him to veer right (assuming he is going straight). Likewise, if your head is at his tail, and you are on his left, turning right will cause him to oversteer too much to the left. This trick takes practice, but in races where cars are moving very fast, this is a good tactic to use to disorientate your opponent. It is, however, a very dirty trick, so don't do it too often if you don't want to make a public enemy of yourself.
* '''Momentum''': Use momentum to give yourself some additional speed on the last turn, or wherever you think possible. Momentum is the turning force when you attempt to powerslide. It increases the speed at which your car moves in a direction. The greater you can hold the momentum, the farther you can actually push your car. Just be aware that this causes over-steering very easily, so use it only when necessary.
* '''Damage speed boost''': dangerous trick to use during Death Races, but IMO a good tactic nonetheless. The trick is to get the enemy to fire at you, so you propel a few more MPH. Lighter vehicles work best with this trick, and naturally heavy guns are likely to push an opponent further. Also of note with heavy weapons is that they slow you down e.g. HMG or HGG. Turn a strong flank (or rear) towards an enemy that is firing at you to get that extra oomph in speed. Rear firing weapoms will also increase your speed. Take care when and where you shoot your weapons! The boost in speed you get from the recoil of rear weapons may make you lose control in the corner you are trying to turn through. (Dropped weapons have no effect on speed or heading due to recoil.)--[[User:JD|JD]] 01:02, 27 February 2011 (UTC)
* '''Speed is LIFE!''': In most combats you will be moving at medium speed (20/40 mph). If you find yourself in a situation where you are taking more shots than you are giving.... '''GET OUT OF DODGE AND MANEUVER!''' Use the terrain to block incoming shots if possible and try for a kill shot when you can. Running away from a lost fight is not considered cowardice... It's considered smart! --[[User:JD|JD]] 08:58, 20 February 2011 (UTC)

[[Category: Guides]]

Alpha Junkers' Driving Tips

2011-02-27T00:54:48Z

JD: /* Common Tips */ signature

(by Alpha Junkers)

All right! So you want to score on the race track? Want to gain some fame as the 'Racer X' equivalent of Darkwind? Then listen closely, for these are tips that will help you win in a race against unfair odds.

== Introduction to Racing ==
So, you may be a veteran racer, or you may be a newbie. It doesn't matter. I've seen newbies who can beat me at racing, and people who've played for a long time and still not excel in it. It doesn't matter.

What matters is how '''YOU''' drive. Winning is everything, losing is nothing... Second place is the first '''LOSER'''!

The difference between winning or losing a race can be either $3600, or your best driver. Trust me, I've seen it happen a lot of times.

Racing in Darkwind is not Need for Speed. It requires precise calculations, planning and balls of steel. But fret not, this guide will make you a racer. There will be terms used here that I have coined. I take no credit for inventing them, there have been players way before I started out who've been using tricks like these, but I prefer using my own terminology for easier reference.

Without further ado, read on for the tips.

== Common Tips ==
* '''Know your race track'''. If you're not good at it, don't expect to get top 3 on your first try. Different terrains handle very differently. You might be able to drift well on well-paved roads, like the Northern Desert Racing Circuit, but the terrain on Somerset Junkyard Track 1 is a totally different animal. Get accustomed to the track, learn how to accurately traverse hairpin corners, before you try to pull a 120mph powerslide on that tricky turn.
* '''Do not be afraid to brake'''. You're better off losing first place, than your driver's life. Don't use the handbrake unless absolutely necessary though. It cuts off a lot of your speed, and you will find it is slower to gain acceleration when you release the handbrake. Of course, floor the accelerator where possible, but in the event your car's spinning out of control, just swallow some of that pride and hit the brakes for a turn or two.
* '''Avoid sliding and counter-steering repeatedly'''. Don't get me wrong, I encourage powersliding as far as possible (see '''Advanced tips''' below). But, if unnecessary, don't keep sliding and counter-steering. You will lose speed. The straighter your steering is, the faster you will go.
* '''Go slow if you predict a pile-up of cars'''. In certain maps, like [[Somerset Rally Circuit]], or more commonly known as ''Figure 8 track'', which I also like to fondly call ''Satan's track'', if you can sense an impending pile-up of cars, go slow. Better to risk losing pole position, than to completely throw out the prize money.
* '''Slipstream'''. I don't know what this idea is about only slipstream specs being able to slipstream, but apparently I've been gaining some speed too on my non-slipstream specs. (''Slip-streaming affects ALL cars.... If you have a driver with the Slip-steamer special, it adds to your cars speed in the event.'')--[[User:JD|JD]] 00:54, 27 February 2011 (UTC) Anyway, if you think you can outrun that guy in front of you without slip-streaming, by all means go ahead. However, if your driver's driving skill just isn't that fantastic, slipstream a bit before trying to overtake the car in front.
* '''Don't powerslide when unnecessary'''. I know it's cool to drift and powerslide, but if you don't know the appropriate angles-of-approach in the track well enough, you're liable to end up powersliding too early, or drifting out of the track.
* '''Predict your opponents'''. Can't stress enough on this. There is no way of telling where your opponents will move. Sometimes, a little bit of psychology can push the races into your advantage. Other times, you just have to figure out where your adversary is going.

== Advanced tips ==
* '''Buffer''': During hairpin turns and sharp corners, if an opponent is between you and a wall (or basically, the opposite side of where you are supposed to turn), use this to your advantage. As you powerslide, he will act as a cushion to buffer the rest of your force. You ''may'' take some damage in your armor, but you are less likely to smash into the wall, while at the same time maintaining an even greater speed than before. The best way to accomplish this trick is to maintain as close side-by-side proximity to your opponent as possible before powersliding, so you don't lose armor, and you still can latch on to him for buffering support.
* '''Tail-twisting/Head-twisting''': This is a cheap trick. The idea is to try to stay on either side of opponent, and your tail must either be facing his head, or your head facing his tail. From there, turn your car accordingly so you distort his sense of direction. For example, if your tail is at his head, and you are on his left, turning left will cause him to veer right (assuming he is going straight). Likewise, if your head is at his tail, and you are on his left, turning right will cause him to oversteer too much to the left. This trick takes practice, but in races where cars are moving very fast, this is a good tactic to use to disorientate your opponent. It is, however, a very dirty trick, so don't do it too often if you don't want to make a public enemy of yourself.
* '''Momentum''': Use momentum to give yourself some additional speed on the last turn, or wherever you think possible. Momentum is the turning force when you attempt to powerslide. It increases the speed at which your car moves in a direction. The greater you can hold the momentum, the farther you can actually push your car. Just be aware that this causes over-steering very easily, so use it only when necessary.
* '''Damage speed boost''': dangerous trick to use during Death Races, but IMO a good tactic nonetheless. The trick is to get the enemy to fire at you, so you propel a few more MPH. Lighter vehicles work best with this trick, and naturally heavy guns are likely to push an opponent further. Also of note with heavy weapons is that they slow you down e.g. HMG or HGG. Turn a strong flank (or rear) towards an enemy that is firing at you to get that extra oomph in speed.
* '''Speed is LIFE!''': In most combats you will be moving at medium speed (20/40 mph). If you find yourself in a situation where you are taking more shots than you are giving.... '''GET OUT OF DODGE AND MANEUVER!''' Use the terrain to block incoming shots if possible and try for a kill shot when you can. Running away from a lost fight is not considered cowardice... It's considered smart! --[[User:JD|JD]] 08:58, 20 February 2011 (UTC)

[[Category: Guides]]

Alpha Junkers' Driving Tips

2011-02-27T00:50:22Z

JD: /* Common Tips */

(by Alpha Junkers)

All right! So you want to score on the race track? Want to gain some fame as the 'Racer X' equivalent of Darkwind? Then listen closely, for these are tips that will help you win in a race against unfair odds.

== Introduction to Racing ==
So, you may be a veteran racer, or you may be a newbie. It doesn't matter. I've seen newbies who can beat me at racing, and people who've played for a long time and still not excel in it. It doesn't matter.

What matters is how '''YOU''' drive. Winning is everything, losing is nothing... Second place is the first '''LOSER'''!

The difference between winning or losing a race can be either $3600, or your best driver. Trust me, I've seen it happen a lot of times.

Racing in Darkwind is not Need for Speed. It requires precise calculations, planning and balls of steel. But fret not, this guide will make you a racer. There will be terms used here that I have coined. I take no credit for inventing them, there have been players way before I started out who've been using tricks like these, but I prefer using my own terminology for easier reference.

Without further ado, read on for the tips.

== Common Tips ==
* '''Know your race track'''. If you're not good at it, don't expect to get top 3 on your first try. Different terrains handle very differently. You might be able to drift well on well-paved roads, like the Northern Desert Racing Circuit, but the terrain on Somerset Junkyard Track 1 is a totally different animal. Get accustomed to the track, learn how to accurately traverse hairpin corners, before you try to pull a 120mph powerslide on that tricky turn.
* '''Do not be afraid to brake'''. You're better off losing first place, than your driver's life. Don't use the handbrake unless absolutely necessary though. It cuts off a lot of your speed, and you will find it is slower to gain acceleration when you release the handbrake. Of course, floor the accelerator where possible, but in the event your car's spinning out of control, just swallow some of that pride and hit the brakes for a turn or two.
* '''Avoid sliding and counter-steering repeatedly'''. Don't get me wrong, I encourage powersliding as far as possible (see '''Advanced tips''' below). But, if unnecessary, don't keep sliding and counter-steering. You will lose speed. The straighter your steering is, the faster you will go.
* '''Go slow if you predict a pile-up of cars'''. In certain maps, like [[Somerset Rally Circuit]], or more commonly known as ''Figure 8 track'', which I also like to fondly call ''Satan's track'', if you can sense an impending pile-up of cars, go slow. Better to risk losing pole position, than to completely throw out the prize money.
* '''Slipstream'''. I don't know what this idea is about only slipstream specs being able to slipstream, but apparently I've been gaining some speed too on my non-slipstream specs. (''Slip-streaming affects ALL cars.... If you have a driver with the Slip-steamer special, it adds to your cars speed in the event.'') Anyway, if you think you can outrun that guy in front of you without slip-streaming, by all means go ahead. However, if your driver's driving skill just isn't that fantastic, slipstream a bit before trying to overtake the car in front.
* '''Don't powerslide when unnecessary'''. I know it's cool to drift and powerslide, but if you don't know the appropriate angles-of-approach in the track well enough, you're liable to end up powersliding too early, or drifting out of the track.
* '''Predict your opponents'''. Can't stress enough on this. There is no way of telling where your opponents will move. Sometimes, a little bit of psychology can push the races into your advantage. Other times, you just have to figure out where your adversary is going.

== Advanced tips ==
* '''Buffer''': During hairpin turns and sharp corners, if an opponent is between you and a wall (or basically, the opposite side of where you are supposed to turn), use this to your advantage. As you powerslide, he will act as a cushion to buffer the rest of your force. You ''may'' take some damage in your armor, but you are less likely to smash into the wall, while at the same time maintaining an even greater speed than before. The best way to accomplish this trick is to maintain as close side-by-side proximity to your opponent as possible before powersliding, so you don't lose armor, and you still can latch on to him for buffering support.
* '''Tail-twisting/Head-twisting''': This is a cheap trick. The idea is to try to stay on either side of opponent, and your tail must either be facing his head, or your head facing his tail. From there, turn your car accordingly so you distort his sense of direction. For example, if your tail is at his head, and you are on his left, turning left will cause him to veer right (assuming he is going straight). Likewise, if your head is at his tail, and you are on his left, turning right will cause him to oversteer too much to the left. This trick takes practice, but in races where cars are moving very fast, this is a good tactic to use to disorientate your opponent. It is, however, a very dirty trick, so don't do it too often if you don't want to make a public enemy of yourself.
* '''Momentum''': Use momentum to give yourself some additional speed on the last turn, or wherever you think possible. Momentum is the turning force when you attempt to powerslide. It increases the speed at which your car moves in a direction. The greater you can hold the momentum, the farther you can actually push your car. Just be aware that this causes over-steering very easily, so use it only when necessary.
* '''Damage speed boost''': dangerous trick to use during Death Races, but IMO a good tactic nonetheless. The trick is to get the enemy to fire at you, so you propel a few more MPH. Lighter vehicles work best with this trick, and naturally heavy guns are likely to push an opponent further. Also of note with heavy weapons is that they slow you down e.g. HMG or HGG. Turn a strong flank (or rear) towards an enemy that is firing at you to get that extra oomph in speed.
* '''Speed is LIFE!''': In most combats you will be moving at medium speed (20/40 mph). If you find yourself in a situation where you are taking more shots than you are giving.... '''GET OUT OF DODGE AND MANEUVER!''' Use the terrain to block incoming shots if possible and try for a kill shot when you can. Running away from a lost fight is not considered cowardice... It's considered smart! --[[User:JD|JD]] 08:58, 20 February 2011 (UTC)

[[Category: Guides]]

Alpha Junkers' Driving Tips

2011-02-27T00:20:44Z

JD: /* Common Tips */ The straighter your steering is, the faster you will go.

(by Alpha Junkers)

All right! So you want to score on the race track? Want to gain some fame as the 'Racer X' equivalent of Darkwind? Then listen closely, for these are tips that will help you win in a race against unfair odds.

== Introduction to Racing ==
So, you may be a veteran racer, or you may be a newbie. It doesn't matter. I've seen newbies who can beat me at racing, and people who've played for a long time and still not excel in it. It doesn't matter.

What matters is how '''YOU''' drive. Winning is everything, losing is nothing... Second place is the first '''LOSER'''!

The difference between winning or losing a race can be either $3600, or your best driver. Trust me, I've seen it happen a lot of times.

Racing in Darkwind is not Need for Speed. It requires precise calculations, planning and balls of steel. But fret not, this guide will make you a racer. There will be terms used here that I have coined. I take no credit for inventing them, there have been players way before I started out who've been using tricks like these, but I prefer using my own terminology for easier reference.

Without further ado, read on for the tips.

== Common Tips ==
* '''Know your race track'''. If you're not good at it, don't expect to get top 3 on your first try. Different terrains handle very differently. You might be able to drift well on well-paved roads, like the Northern Desert Racing Circuit, but the terrain on Somerset Junkyard Track 1 is a totally different animal. Get accustomed to the track, learn how to accurately traverse hairpin corners, before you try to pull a 120mph powerslide on that tricky turn.
* '''Do not be afraid to brake'''. You're better off losing first place, than your driver's life. Don't use the handbrake unless absolutely necessary though. It cuts off a lot of your speed, and you will find it is slower to gain acceleration when you release the handbrake. Of course, floor the accelerator where possible, but in the event your car's spinning out of control, just swallow some of that pride and hit the brakes for a turn or two.
* '''Avoid sliding and counter-steering repeatedly'''. Don't get me wrong, I encourage powersliding as far as possible (see '''Advanced tips''' below). But, if unnecessary, don't keep sliding and counter-steering. You will lose speed. The straighter your steering is, the faster you will go.
* '''Go slow if you predict a pile-up of cars'''. In certain maps, like [[Somerset Rally Circuit]], or more commonly known as ''Figure 8 track'', which I also like to fondly call ''Satan's track'', if you can sense an impending pile-up of cars, go slow. Better to risk losing pole position, than to completely throw out the prize money.
* '''Slipstream'''. I don't know what's this idea about only slipstream specs being able to slipstream, but apparently I've been gaining some speed too on my non-slipstream specs. I could be wrong though. Anyway if you think you can outrun that guy in front of you without slipstreaming, by all means go ahead. However, if your driver's driving skill just isn't that fantastic, slipstream a bit before trying to overtake the car in front.
* '''Don't powerslide when unnecessary'''. I know it's cool to drift and powerslide, but if you don't know the appropriate angles-of-approach in the track well enough, you're liable to end up powersliding too early, or drifting out of the track.
* '''Predict your opponents'''. Can't stress enough on this. There is no way of telling where your opponents will move. Sometimes, a little bit of psychology can push the races into your advantage. Other times, you just have to figure out where your adversary is going.

== Advanced tips ==
* '''Buffer''': During hairpin turns and sharp corners, if an opponent is between you and a wall (or basically, the opposite side of where you are supposed to turn), use this to your advantage. As you powerslide, he will act as a cushion to buffer the rest of your force. You ''may'' take some damage in your armor, but you are less likely to smash into the wall, while at the same time maintaining an even greater speed than before. The best way to accomplish this trick is to maintain as close side-by-side proximity to your opponent as possible before powersliding, so you don't lose armor, and you still can latch on to him for buffering support.
* '''Tail-twisting/Head-twisting''': This is a cheap trick. The idea is to try to stay on either side of opponent, and your tail must either be facing his head, or your head facing his tail. From there, turn your car accordingly so you distort his sense of direction. For example, if your tail is at his head, and you are on his left, turning left will cause him to veer right (assuming he is going straight). Likewise, if your head is at his tail, and you are on his left, turning right will cause him to oversteer too much to the left. This trick takes practice, but in races where cars are moving very fast, this is a good tactic to use to disorientate your opponent. It is, however, a very dirty trick, so don't do it too often if you don't want to make a public enemy of yourself.
* '''Momentum''': Use momentum to give yourself some additional speed on the last turn, or wherever you think possible. Momentum is the turning force when you attempt to powerslide. It increases the speed at which your car moves in a direction. The greater you can hold the momentum, the farther you can actually push your car. Just be aware that this causes over-steering very easily, so use it only when necessary.
* '''Damage speed boost''': dangerous trick to use during Death Races, but IMO a good tactic nonetheless. The trick is to get the enemy to fire at you, so you propel a few more MPH. Lighter vehicles work best with this trick, and naturally heavy guns are likely to push an opponent further. Also of note with heavy weapons is that they slow you down e.g. HMG or HGG. Turn a strong flank (or rear) towards an enemy that is firing at you to get that extra oomph in speed.
* '''Speed is LIFE!''': In most combats you will be moving at medium speed (20/40 mph). If you find yourself in a situation where you are taking more shots than you are giving.... '''GET OUT OF DODGE AND MANEUVER!''' Use the terrain to block incoming shots if possible and try for a kill shot when you can. Running away from a lost fight is not considered cowardice... It's considered smart! --[[User:JD|JD]] 08:58, 20 February 2011 (UTC)

[[Category: Guides]]

Alpha Junkers' Driving Tips

2011-02-27T00:16:27Z

JD: /* Introduction to Racing */

(by Alpha Junkers)

All right! So you want to score on the race track? Want to gain some fame as the 'Racer X' equivalent of Darkwind? Then listen closely, for these are tips that will help you win in a race against unfair odds.

== Introduction to Racing ==
So, you may be a veteran racer, or you may be a newbie. It doesn't matter. I've seen newbies who can beat me at racing, and people who've played for a long time and still not excel in it. It doesn't matter.

What matters is how '''YOU''' drive. Winning is everything, losing is nothing... Second place is the first '''LOSER'''!

The difference between winning or losing a race can be either $3600, or your best driver. Trust me, I've seen it happen a lot of times.

Racing in Darkwind is not Need for Speed. It requires precise calculations, planning and balls of steel. But fret not, this guide will make you a racer. There will be terms used here that I have coined. I take no credit for inventing them, there have been players way before I started out who've been using tricks like these, but I prefer using my own terminology for easier reference.

Without further ado, read on for the tips.

== Common Tips ==
* '''Know your race track'''. If you're not good at it, don't expect to get top 3 on your first try. Different terrains handle very differently. You might be able to drift well on well-paved roads, like the Northern Desert Racing Circuit, but the terrain on Somerset Junkyard Track 1 is a totally different animal. Get accustomed to the track, learn how to accurately traverse hairpin corners, before you try to pull a 120mph powerslide on that tricky turn.
* '''Do not be afraid to brake'''. You're better off losing first place, than your driver's life. Don't use the handbrake unless absolutely necessary though. It cuts off a lot of your speed, and you will find it is slower to gain acceleration when you release the handbrake. Of course, floor the accelerator where possible, but in the event your car's spinning out of control, just swallow some of that pride and hit the brakes for a turn or two.
* '''Avoid sliding and counter-steering repeatedly'''. Don't get me wrong, I encourage powersliding as far as possible (see '''Advanced tips''' below). But, if unnecessary, don't keep sliding and counter-steering. You will lose speed.
* '''Go slow if you predict a pile-up of cars'''. In certain maps, like [[Somerset Rally Circuit]], or more commonly known as ''Figure 8 track'', which I also like to fondly call ''Satan's track'', if you can sense an impending pile-up of cars, go slow. Better to risk losing pole position, than to completely throw out the prize money.
* '''Slipstream'''. I don't know what's this idea about only slipstream specs being able to slipstream, but apparently I've been gaining some speed too on my non-slipstream specs. I could be wrong though. Anyway if you think you can outrun that guy in front of you without slipstreaming, by all means go ahead. However, if your driver's driving skill just isn't that fantastic, slipstream a bit before trying to overtake the car in front.
* '''Don't powerslide when unnecessary'''. I know it's cool to drift and powerslide, but if you don't know the appropriate angles-of-approach in the track well enough, you're liable to end up powersliding too early, or drifting out of the track.
* '''Predict your opponents'''. Can't stress enough on this. There is no way of telling where your opponents will move. Sometimes, a little bit of psychology can push the races into your advantage. Other times, you just have to figure out where your adversary is going.

== Advanced tips ==
* '''Buffer''': During hairpin turns and sharp corners, if an opponent is between you and a wall (or basically, the opposite side of where you are supposed to turn), use this to your advantage. As you powerslide, he will act as a cushion to buffer the rest of your force. You ''may'' take some damage in your armor, but you are less likely to smash into the wall, while at the same time maintaining an even greater speed than before. The best way to accomplish this trick is to maintain as close side-by-side proximity to your opponent as possible before powersliding, so you don't lose armor, and you still can latch on to him for buffering support.
* '''Tail-twisting/Head-twisting''': This is a cheap trick. The idea is to try to stay on either side of opponent, and your tail must either be facing his head, or your head facing his tail. From there, turn your car accordingly so you distort his sense of direction. For example, if your tail is at his head, and you are on his left, turning left will cause him to veer right (assuming he is going straight). Likewise, if your head is at his tail, and you are on his left, turning right will cause him to oversteer too much to the left. This trick takes practice, but in races where cars are moving very fast, this is a good tactic to use to disorientate your opponent. It is, however, a very dirty trick, so don't do it too often if you don't want to make a public enemy of yourself.
* '''Momentum''': Use momentum to give yourself some additional speed on the last turn, or wherever you think possible. Momentum is the turning force when you attempt to powerslide. It increases the speed at which your car moves in a direction. The greater you can hold the momentum, the farther you can actually push your car. Just be aware that this causes over-steering very easily, so use it only when necessary.
* '''Damage speed boost''': dangerous trick to use during Death Races, but IMO a good tactic nonetheless. The trick is to get the enemy to fire at you, so you propel a few more MPH. Lighter vehicles work best with this trick, and naturally heavy guns are likely to push an opponent further. Also of note with heavy weapons is that they slow you down e.g. HMG or HGG. Turn a strong flank (or rear) towards an enemy that is firing at you to get that extra oomph in speed.
* '''Speed is LIFE!''': In most combats you will be moving at medium speed (20/40 mph). If you find yourself in a situation where you are taking more shots than you are giving.... '''GET OUT OF DODGE AND MANEUVER!''' Use the terrain to block incoming shots if possible and try for a kill shot when you can. Running away from a lost fight is not considered cowardice... It's considered smart! --[[User:JD|JD]] 08:58, 20 February 2011 (UTC)

[[Category: Guides]]

Alpha Junkers' Driving Tips

2011-02-27T00:15:54Z

JD: /* Introduction to Racing */ Second place is the first loser

(by Alpha Junkers)

All right! So you want to score on the race track? Want to gain some fame as the 'Racer X' equivalent of Darkwind? Then listen closely, for these are tips that will help you win in a race against unfair odds.

== Introduction to Racing ==
So, you may be a veteran racer, or you may be a newbie. It doesn't matter. I've seen newbies who can beat me at racing, and people who've played for a long time and still not excel in it. It doesn't matter.

What matters is how '''YOU''' drive. Winning is everything, losing is nothing... Second place is the first LOSER!

The difference between winning or losing a race can be either $3600, or your best driver. Trust me, I've seen it happen a lot of times.

Racing in Darkwind is not Need for Speed. It requires precise calculations, planning and balls of steel. But fret not, this guide will make you a racer. There will be terms used here that I have coined. I take no credit for inventing them, there have been players way before I started out who've been using tricks like these, but I prefer using my own terminology for easier reference.

Without further ado, read on for the tips.

== Common Tips ==
* '''Know your race track'''. If you're not good at it, don't expect to get top 3 on your first try. Different terrains handle very differently. You might be able to drift well on well-paved roads, like the Northern Desert Racing Circuit, but the terrain on Somerset Junkyard Track 1 is a totally different animal. Get accustomed to the track, learn how to accurately traverse hairpin corners, before you try to pull a 120mph powerslide on that tricky turn.
* '''Do not be afraid to brake'''. You're better off losing first place, than your driver's life. Don't use the handbrake unless absolutely necessary though. It cuts off a lot of your speed, and you will find it is slower to gain acceleration when you release the handbrake. Of course, floor the accelerator where possible, but in the event your car's spinning out of control, just swallow some of that pride and hit the brakes for a turn or two.
* '''Avoid sliding and counter-steering repeatedly'''. Don't get me wrong, I encourage powersliding as far as possible (see '''Advanced tips''' below). But, if unnecessary, don't keep sliding and counter-steering. You will lose speed.
* '''Go slow if you predict a pile-up of cars'''. In certain maps, like [[Somerset Rally Circuit]], or more commonly known as ''Figure 8 track'', which I also like to fondly call ''Satan's track'', if you can sense an impending pile-up of cars, go slow. Better to risk losing pole position, than to completely throw out the prize money.
* '''Slipstream'''. I don't know what's this idea about only slipstream specs being able to slipstream, but apparently I've been gaining some speed too on my non-slipstream specs. I could be wrong though. Anyway if you think you can outrun that guy in front of you without slipstreaming, by all means go ahead. However, if your driver's driving skill just isn't that fantastic, slipstream a bit before trying to overtake the car in front.
* '''Don't powerslide when unnecessary'''. I know it's cool to drift and powerslide, but if you don't know the appropriate angles-of-approach in the track well enough, you're liable to end up powersliding too early, or drifting out of the track.
* '''Predict your opponents'''. Can't stress enough on this. There is no way of telling where your opponents will move. Sometimes, a little bit of psychology can push the races into your advantage. Other times, you just have to figure out where your adversary is going.

== Advanced tips ==
* '''Buffer''': During hairpin turns and sharp corners, if an opponent is between you and a wall (or basically, the opposite side of where you are supposed to turn), use this to your advantage. As you powerslide, he will act as a cushion to buffer the rest of your force. You ''may'' take some damage in your armor, but you are less likely to smash into the wall, while at the same time maintaining an even greater speed than before. The best way to accomplish this trick is to maintain as close side-by-side proximity to your opponent as possible before powersliding, so you don't lose armor, and you still can latch on to him for buffering support.
* '''Tail-twisting/Head-twisting''': This is a cheap trick. The idea is to try to stay on either side of opponent, and your tail must either be facing his head, or your head facing his tail. From there, turn your car accordingly so you distort his sense of direction. For example, if your tail is at his head, and you are on his left, turning left will cause him to veer right (assuming he is going straight). Likewise, if your head is at his tail, and you are on his left, turning right will cause him to oversteer too much to the left. This trick takes practice, but in races where cars are moving very fast, this is a good tactic to use to disorientate your opponent. It is, however, a very dirty trick, so don't do it too often if you don't want to make a public enemy of yourself.
* '''Momentum''': Use momentum to give yourself some additional speed on the last turn, or wherever you think possible. Momentum is the turning force when you attempt to powerslide. It increases the speed at which your car moves in a direction. The greater you can hold the momentum, the farther you can actually push your car. Just be aware that this causes over-steering very easily, so use it only when necessary.
* '''Damage speed boost''': dangerous trick to use during Death Races, but IMO a good tactic nonetheless. The trick is to get the enemy to fire at you, so you propel a few more MPH. Lighter vehicles work best with this trick, and naturally heavy guns are likely to push an opponent further. Also of note with heavy weapons is that they slow you down e.g. HMG or HGG. Turn a strong flank (or rear) towards an enemy that is firing at you to get that extra oomph in speed.
* '''Speed is LIFE!''': In most combats you will be moving at medium speed (20/40 mph). If you find yourself in a situation where you are taking more shots than you are giving.... '''GET OUT OF DODGE AND MANEUVER!''' Use the terrain to block incoming shots if possible and try for a kill shot when you can. Running away from a lost fight is not considered cowardice... It's considered smart! --[[User:JD|JD]] 08:58, 20 February 2011 (UTC)

[[Category: Guides]]

Alpha Junkers' Driving Tips

2011-02-20T09:01:11Z

JD: /* Advanced tips */

(by Alpha Junkers)

Alright! So you want to score on the race track? Want to gain some fame as the 'Racer X' equivalent of Darkwind? Then listen closely, for these are tips that will help you win in a race against unfair odds.

== Introduction to Racing ==
So, you may be a veteran racer, or you may be a newbie. It doesn't matter. I've seen newbies who can beat me at racing, and people who've played for a long time and still not excel in it. It doesn't matter.

What matters is how '''YOU''' drive. Winning is everything, losing is nothing. The difference between winning or losing a race can be either $3600, or your best driver. Trust me, I've seen it happen a lot of times.

Racing in Darkwind is not Need for Speed. It requires precise calculations, planning and balls of steel. But fret not, this guide will make you a racer. There will be terms used here that I have coined. I take no credit for inventing them, there have been players way before I started out who've been using tricks like these, but I prefer using my own terminology for easier reference.

Without further ado, read on for the tips.

== Common Tips ==
* '''Know your race track'''. If you're not good at it, don't expect to get top 3 on your first try. Different terrains handle very differently. You might be able to drift well on well-paved roads, like the Northern Desert Racing Circuit, but the terrain on Somerset Junkyard Track 1 is a totally different animal. Get accustomed to the track, learn how to accurately traverse hairpin corners, before you try to pull a 120mph powerslide on that tricky turn.
* '''Do not be afraid to brake'''. You're better off losing first place, than your driver's life. Don't use the handbrake unless absolutely necessary though. It cuts off a lot of your speed, and you will find it is slower to gain acceleration when you release the handbrake. Of course, floor the accelerator where possible, but in the event your car's spinning out of control, just swallow some of that pride and hit the brakes for a turn or two.
* '''Avoid sliding and counter-steering repeatedly'''. Don't get me wrong, I encourage powersliding as far as possible (see '''Advanced tips''' below). But, if unnecessary, don't keep sliding and counter-steering. You will lose speed.
* '''Go slow if you predict a pile-up of cars'''. In certain maps, like [[Somerset Rally Circuit]], or more commonly known as ''Figure 8 track'', which I also like to fondly call ''Satan's track'', if you can sense an impending pile-up of cars, go slow. Better to risk losing pole position, than to completely throw out the prize money.
* '''Slipstream'''. I don't know what's this idea about only slipstream specs being able to slipstream, but apparently I've been gaining some speed too on my non-slipstream specs. I could be wrong though. Anyway if you think you can outrun that guy in front of you without slipstreaming, by all means go ahead. However, if your driver's driving skill just isn't that fantastic, slipstream a bit before trying to overtake the car in front.
* '''Don't powerslide when unnecessary'''. I know it's cool to drift and powerslide, but if you don't know the appropriate angles-of-approach in the track well enough, you're liable to end up powersliding too early, or drifting out of the track.
* '''Predict your opponents'''. Can't stress enough on this. There is no way of telling where your opponents will move. Sometimes, a little bit of psychology can push the races into your advantage. Other times, you just have to figure out where your adversary is going.

== Advanced tips ==
* '''Buffer''': During hairpin turns and sharp corners, if an opponent is between you and a wall (or basically, the opposite side of where you are supposed to turn), use this to your advantage. As you powerslide, he will act as a cushion to buffer the rest of your force. You ''may'' take some damage in your armor, but you are less likely to smash into the wall, while at the same time maintaining an even greater speed than before. The best way to accomplish this trick is to maintain as close side-by-side proximity to your opponent as possible before powersliding, so you don't lose armor, and you still can latch on to him for buffering support.
* '''Tail-twisting/Head-twisting''': This is a cheap trick. The idea is to try to stay on either side of opponent, and your tail must either be facing his head, or your head facing his tail. From there, turn your car accordingly so you distort his sense of direction. For example, if your tail is at his head, and you are on his left, turning left will cause him to veer right (assuming he is going straight). Likewise, if your head is at his tail, and you are on his left, turning right will cause him to oversteer too much to the left. This trick takes practice, but in races where cars are moving very fast, this is a good tactic to use to disorientate your opponent. It is, however, a very dirty trick, so don't do it too often if you don't want to make a public enemy of yourself.
* '''Momentum''': Use momentum to give yourself some additional speed on the last turn, or wherever you think possible. Momentum is the turning force when you attempt to powerslide. It increases the speed at which your car moves in a direction. The greater you can hold the momentum, the farther you can actually push your car. Just be aware that this causes over-steering very easily, so use it only when necessary.
* '''Damage speed boost''': dangerous trick to use during Death Races, but IMO a good tactic nonetheless. The trick is to get the enemy to fire at you, so you propel a few more MPH. Lighter vehicles work best with this trick, and naturally heavy guns are likely to push an opponent further. Also of note with heavy weapons is that they slow you down e.g. HMG or HGG. Turn a strong flank (or rear) towards an enemy that is firing at you to get that extra oomph in speed.
* '''Speed is LIFE!''': In most combats you will be moving at medium speed (20/40 mph). If you find yourself in a situation where you are taking more shots than you are giving.... '''GET OUT OF DODGE AND MANEUVER!''' Use the terrain to block incoming shots if possible and try for a killshot when you can.--Running away from a lost fight is not considered cowardice....[[User:JD|JD]] 08:58, 20 February 2011 (UTC)

[[Category: Guides]]

Alpha Junkers' Driving Tips

2011-02-20T08:58:09Z

JD: /* Advanced tips */ Added "Speed is Life" comment

(by Alpha Junkers)

Alright! So you want to score on the race track? Want to gain some fame as the 'Racer X' equivalent of Darkwind? Then listen closely, for these are tips that will help you win in a race against unfair odds.

== Introduction to Racing ==
So, you may be a veteran racer, or you may be a newbie. It doesn't matter. I've seen newbies who can beat me at racing, and people who've played for a long time and still not excel in it. It doesn't matter.

What matters is how '''YOU''' drive. Winning is everything, losing is nothing. The difference between winning or losing a race can be either $3600, or your best driver. Trust me, I've seen it happen a lot of times.

Racing in Darkwind is not Need for Speed. It requires precise calculations, planning and balls of steel. But fret not, this guide will make you a racer. There will be terms used here that I have coined. I take no credit for inventing them, there have been players way before I started out who've been using tricks like these, but I prefer using my own terminology for easier reference.

Without further ado, read on for the tips.

== Common Tips ==
* '''Know your race track'''. If you're not good at it, don't expect to get top 3 on your first try. Different terrains handle very differently. You might be able to drift well on well-paved roads, like the Northern Desert Racing Circuit, but the terrain on Somerset Junkyard Track 1 is a totally different animal. Get accustomed to the track, learn how to accurately traverse hairpin corners, before you try to pull a 120mph powerslide on that tricky turn.
* '''Do not be afraid to brake'''. You're better off losing first place, than your driver's life. Don't use the handbrake unless absolutely necessary though. It cuts off a lot of your speed, and you will find it is slower to gain acceleration when you release the handbrake. Of course, floor the accelerator where possible, but in the event your car's spinning out of control, just swallow some of that pride and hit the brakes for a turn or two.
* '''Avoid sliding and counter-steering repeatedly'''. Don't get me wrong, I encourage powersliding as far as possible (see '''Advanced tips''' below). But, if unnecessary, don't keep sliding and counter-steering. You will lose speed.
* '''Go slow if you predict a pile-up of cars'''. In certain maps, like [[Somerset Rally Circuit]], or more commonly known as ''Figure 8 track'', which I also like to fondly call ''Satan's track'', if you can sense an impending pile-up of cars, go slow. Better to risk losing pole position, than to completely throw out the prize money.
* '''Slipstream'''. I don't know what's this idea about only slipstream specs being able to slipstream, but apparently I've been gaining some speed too on my non-slipstream specs. I could be wrong though. Anyway if you think you can outrun that guy in front of you without slipstreaming, by all means go ahead. However, if your driver's driving skill just isn't that fantastic, slipstream a bit before trying to overtake the car in front.
* '''Don't powerslide when unnecessary'''. I know it's cool to drift and powerslide, but if you don't know the appropriate angles-of-approach in the track well enough, you're liable to end up powersliding too early, or drifting out of the track.
* '''Predict your opponents'''. Can't stress enough on this. There is no way of telling where your opponents will move. Sometimes, a little bit of psychology can push the races into your advantage. Other times, you just have to figure out where your adversary is going.

== Advanced tips ==
* '''Buffer''': During hairpin turns and sharp corners, if an opponent is between you and a wall (or basically, the opposite side of where you are supposed to turn), use this to your advantage. As you powerslide, he will act as a cushion to buffer the rest of your force. You ''may'' take some damage in your armor, but you are less likely to smash into the wall, while at the same time maintaining an even greater speed than before. The best way to accomplish this trick is to maintain as close side-by-side proximity to your opponent as possible before powersliding, so you don't lose armor, and you still can latch on to him for buffering support.
* '''Tail-twisting/Head-twisting''': This is a cheap trick. The idea is to try to stay on either side of opponent, and your tail must either be facing his head, or your head facing his tail. From there, turn your car accordingly so you distort his sense of direction. For example, if your tail is at his head, and you are on his left, turning left will cause him to veer right (assuming he is going straight). Likewise, if your head is at his tail, and you are on his left, turning right will cause him to oversteer too much to the left. This trick takes practice, but in races where cars are moving very fast, this is a good tactic to use to disorientate your opponent. It is, however, a very dirty trick, so don't do it too often if you don't want to make a public enemy of yourself.
* '''Momentum''': Use momentum to give yourself some additional speed on the last turn, or wherever you think possible. Momentum is the turning force when you attempt to powerslide. It increases the speed at which your car moves in a direction. The greater you can hold the momentum, the farther you can actually push your car. Just be aware that this causes over-steering very easily, so use it only when necessary.
* '''Damage speed boost''': dangerous trick to use during Death Races, but IMO a good tactic nonetheless. The trick is to get the enemy to fire at you, so you propel a few more MPH. Lighter vehicles work best with this trick, and naturally heavy guns are likely to push an opponent further. Also of note with heavy weapons is that they slow you down e.g. HMG or HGG. Turn a strong flank (or rear) towards an enemy that is firing at you to get that extra oomph in speed.
* '''Speed is LIFE!''': In most combats you will be moving at medium speed (20/40 mph). If you find yourself in a situation where you are taking more shots than you are giving.... '''GET OUT OF DODGE AND MANEUVER!''' Use the terrain to block incoming shots if possible and try for a killshot when you can.--[[User:JD|JD]] 08:58, 20 February 2011 (UTC)

[[Category: Guides]]

Scout Leading Guide

2011-02-17T03:13:42Z

JD: /* Wait till everybody is ready */

Being a successful scout leader is no big deal, but it usually follows a procedure that can be considered as "unwritten law of scout leading".

The most important part is to know the [[Initial_Scout_Guide|Initial Scout Guide]], if you want to survive the wastes.
Then you should have '''joined more than a few scouts''' of more experienced players, which gives you some fast cash and experience. Also you will already know the common procedure of scouts.
And, '''make sure that you have the time to lead the scout''' and don't forget to calculate a possible return encounter after the main even.

==Form a squad==

To start a scout you need ''- of course -'' a scout squad. You can form new squad on the website under "Squads". After clicking "squads" from the site, you will see "Create squad in (town)" as well as a list of squads of other players that you are a member of. Choose the "Create squad" in the town you wish to scout from, try to make the squad name easy to remember.

Dark-Wind players are a creative crowd so the common password for scout squads is "1234".

After setting your password, the screen will change to show the original squad page with your newly activated squad. Click your squad and click the "join" button. As the owner you '''STILL''' have to join the squad but need not add the password. Once you have joined the squad, you can add your combat vehicles. (Make sure you have an engine, guns, ammo, tires, gunners and a driver before adding the car to your squad) In short, double check EVERYTHING! Even the Veterans have gone out scouting without one or more of the above mentioned necessities because they were in a hurry!!

Once you have vehicles in the squad you can exit the web-site and go back to the client/game-generator.

Once back in the client, look above the list of players. Look for "My scouting squad". Click my scouting squad, you'll notice your new squad in the upper left. Pick the squad that you just formed. NOW you can ask others to join your squad and see their added vehicles in your squad.

One of the ways to switch around to the webpage and the lobby is alt-tab. use whichever method you find the easiest.

==The 'My Scouting Squad' Button==
Try using the [[My Scouting Squad]] button to set up the scout. It can get people to the scout page quicker,and tell you who is in and who is ready.

==Announce the scout in Chat ==
State the name of your squad, the password, and the town it takes place in. If you want to go after traders rather than pirates, mention it, 'cos not everybody wants to mess up his reputation by hunting traders.

==Remember a scout character==
If you don't put a scout character in ask the others to bring a scout or doom may come over your squad.

==Wait 'til everybody is ready==
'''"IN AND READY"''' is the most common reply from other players in your squad who have double checked their set ups and are ready for the scout.

As players join......... don't start the scout before you get a ready from every joined player! Players fiddle with their car/character setups and it can bring hell (and a few enemies) if you start the scout when some players haven't finished their setup.

If the players joined by clicking on your name in the lower left and then selecting Scouting Squad, you'll notice that in the upper left their name will change color to white. That means that they are ready and have clicked the ready button. Not all players join using this method. Simply ask the players to join this way, or if they still do not, just ask if they are ready.

==Start the Scout==
You start the scout by pressing the web-page button in the upper upper left. your default browser will open or a new tab in the web browser you currently have open will open. You'll see the main page displayed as your scouting squad.

==Select your Primary Target==

* Intercept weaker pirates
* Intercept NPC traders
* Intercept player gangs or any other hunt-able NPC gangs. The higher the NPC gang's fame the harder they will be.

==Miles you Wish to Scout==

Remember you cannot go further than half the distance the whole squad has fuel for. The further you go, the better you will train your scout and the easier the NPCs will be. NPCs like to hang around the towns and close to their supplies. Further out, NPCs are most likely traveling between towns. Also, the further you go the longer it will take to return. Getting a return encounter does not increase with distance, so the chance is still the same regardless. Regardless of how much fuel you have, the maximum distance you can go on a scout is 50 miles. The default is 25 miles.

==Scout Direction==

From [[Somerset]]: Elmsfield is easier than Gateway Truck Stop. You can also scout towards any camps that you are member of. This is often used to scout north of Somerset.

From [[Elmsfield]]: Somerset is easier than Gateway Truck Stop. You can also scout towards any camps that you are member of.

From [[Gateway Truck Stop]]: Somerset is easier than Elmsfield and Badlands Truck Stop. Elmsfield is easier than Badlands Truck Stop. Scouting towards Badlands Truck Stop is the hardest. You can also scout towards any camps that you are member of.

From [[Badlands Truck Stop]]: Gateway Truck Stop is the easiest. All other directions are more difficult.

All of the southern towns have equal difficulty. The higher the NPC gangs fame, the harder they will be.

==The Event Starts==

You have to wait for the server to start your scout event.

You have until the time Dexter's head appears, with an audible prompt<ref>Voiced by player [[JD Basher]]</ref>, to make any changes to the scout, or 'pull it back' by going to the web-page with your scout squad, and using the ''Stop Scouting Outside Town'' button. You may want to do this if someone asks to join the scout that didn't do it before you selected to scout outside town. They cannot join until you stop the scout. After they join and signify they are ready, you can then begin the process to Start the Scout again.

After Dexter's head appears you cannot stop the scout. If anyone wishes to join they will not be able to. The best way to tell them they cannot join is to say the server already started. This is better than just saying no.

There will be a box that pops up in a few minutes to allow you to play the scout event. You can close this box but to then play the event you will have to select the Live Events tab in the center of the lobby and pick your event.

When the event starts nobody awaits that the leader lays down the tactic so there's no problem to ask for a plan. Most experienced players know what to do, anyway. Also check the enemies setup in the event window. Pickups often mean Rocket launchers and they can hurt. Prime targets!

==After-show and travel processing==
[[Looting]] commences as usual - everybody gets what he can grab if nothing else was decided.
After an event server has closed you have to process the scout squad on your squad page, because it might be possible that you get a return encounter. Also, nobody will get home when you don't finish the travel.

If there's no return encounter announce that to your joiners so everybody knows that they are "dismissed", or if there's a return encounter.
----

=== Notes ===
<references/>
[[Category: Guides]]
[[Category: New Player]]
[[Category: Start Up]]

Talk:Tires

2011-02-17T03:04:43Z

JD:

Bullet Magnet

Not sure making a dedicated page is required as an addition to the wiki but if it only appears on the tires page, I'm pretty sure not very many people will see it and this is information a LOT of players may use.
Maybe link it to a scouting/combat page(s).
*I think this behavior is consistent with any type of cargo. Basically, the more stuff in the vehicle, the more stuff the math has to pick from when distributing damage. Perhaps 'sponge' is a better term, since they just soak up damage rather than actually ''attracting'' the bullets? --[[User:Wikiadmin|Wikiadmin]] 02:36, 17 February 2011 (UTC)
**Might want to send this question to JD in a PM since I don't know if he'll see it in here. Not saying he won't, I just don't know if he'll check. --[[User:Trifler|Trifler]] 02:41, 17 February 2011 (UTC)
----
I did see it....
Thank you.

If "sponge" is a better term I can live with it.
I prefer "Magnet" though... :)

Talk:Tires

2011-02-17T03:04:05Z

JD:

Bullet Magnet

Not sure making a dedicated page is required as an addition to the wiki but if it only appears on the tires page, I'm pretty sure not very many people will see it and this is information a LOT of players may use.
Maybe link it to a scouting/combat page(s).
*I think this behavior is consistent with any type of cargo. Basically, the more stuff in the vehicle, the more stuff the math has to pick from when distributing damage. Perhaps 'sponge' is a better term, since they just soak up damage rather than actually ''attracting'' the bullets? --[[User:Wikiadmin|Wikiadmin]] 02:36, 17 February 2011 (UTC)
**Might want to send this question to JD in a PM since I don't know if he'll see it in here. Not saying he won't, I just don't know if he'll check. --[[User:Trifler|Trifler]] 02:41, 17 February 2011 (UTC)
----
I did see it....
Thank you.
If "sponge" is a better term I can live with it.
I prefer "Magnet" though... :)

Talk:Tires

2011-02-17T03:01:55Z

JD:

JD Basher

2011-02-17T02:53:14Z

JD: Created page with 'I joined Dark-Wind on February 11th, 2007. As of this posting, February 16th 2011, I'm still here playing the game. I'm still posting in the forums and being a Marshal/moderator…'

I joined Dark-Wind on February 11th, 2007.

As of this posting, February 16th 2011, I'm still here playing the game. I'm still posting in the forums and being a Marshal/moderator and ambassador of the game and generally being a troll!

About six months after I joined I asked Sam to join me on a VOIP (Voice over internet) program we both had one day just so I could hear the voice of the person who made the game I had been searching for DECADES! Sam asked me one year later to record some voice-overs. You hear the results.

I grew up with Car-Wars... I had an 6' high X 15' wall in my house papered with a hex map of two towns I could play that board game with!

I am 49... I am an old truck driver. I have 1.37 million miles under my belt and the road has always called to me.

The only thing I really wanted, missed and didn't have while driving a 40,000+ lb. Manned, guided 48 foot long wheeled road missile, was the heavy weaponry to move the "idiots" in front of me out of the way.

I can't tell you how many times a driver in a "Beer-Can" 4 wheeler car decided to pass me and get back in my lane only to brake from 65 MPH to 30 MPH in a hurry..... 40,000 lbs does not stop in a hurry!

It does not matter how big your SUV is... Unless you are driving a vehicle that can force me off the road, You are still a "beer can" if I hit you or roll over you in my rig!

I '''LOVE''' this game..

Talk:Scout Leading Guide

2011-02-17T01:50:27Z

JD: /* Event Start Section */

Good job Mike, thanks for the addition! Perhaps some screenshots could help?

== Event Start Section ==

Some clarification on the following would be helpful:

----
When the event starts nobody awaits that the leader lays down the tactic so there's no problem to ask for a plan. Most experienced players know what to do, anyway. Also check the enemies setup in the event window. Pickups often mean Rocket launchers and they can hurt. Prime targets!
----

Is this advice ''really'' saying 'don't wait to discuss a plan, and just do your own thing'?
----

Good addition taking my name out... I wasn't sure about it but thought it needed a bold just in case.
----

Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found

The link was not found apparently.

Talk:Scout Leading Guide

2011-02-17T01:47:10Z

JD: /* Event Start Section */

Advertise for Courier Mission

2011-02-17T01:43:14Z

JD:

== Advertise for Courier Mission ==

When clicked, you will be offered specific variables for your mission.

Bulk size.

Specific Squad.

Destination(s).

(ALL bulk advertised for '''MUST'''
be carried in one vehicle, you will not be allowed an option to split the bulk between vehicles in the same squad.)

The size of your mission-runner-Squad vehicle cargo capacity will determine your bulk available for your advertisement. You can see the bulk available by clicking on the "see bulk" of the squad/vehicle you have selected. Once you see how much bulk can be carried, you put that number (or less) into the bulk selection.

Once you decide what car(s)/Squads will be carrying the selected bulk and the town(s) destination, you can click the "Advertise now" button.

Once you click the "advertise" button the screen will show a list of merchants willing to pay you to take their wares to other towns. Some will pay a LOT to make sure your gang can get their goods to other towns. Use your math skills to add or subtract the loss/profit you can make on a run depending on your repairs and refueling costs.

Unlike the "Check the Noticeboard" missions, you have no idea who is paying you or how vocal they are about who works for them. (The vocal ones will make your life HELL because every Pirate and their brother knows what you are carrying!)

Choose a mission and let the screen refresh... THEN add the mission to your squad and take your chances like the rest of us!

Advertise for Courier Mission

2011-02-17T01:13:35Z

JD: Created page with '== Advertise for Courier Mission == When clicked, you will be offered specific variables for your mission. Bulk size. Specific Squad. Destination. (ALL bulk advertised for …'

== Advertise for Courier Mission ==

When clicked, you will be offered specific variables for your mission.

Bulk size.

Specific Squad.

Destination.

(ALL bulk advertised for '''MUST'''
be carried in one vehicle, you will not be allowed an option to split the bulk between vehicles in the same squad.)

Depending on the size of your mission runner vehicle(s)/Squad, will determine your bulk available. You can see the bulk available by clicking on the "see bulk" of the vehicle/squad you have selected. Once you see how much can be carried, you put that number (or less) into the bulk selection.

Once you decide what car(s)/Squads will be carrying the selected bulk and the town destination, you can click the "Advertise now" button.

Once you click the "advertise" button the screen will show a list of merchants willing to pay you to take their wares to other towns. Some will pay a LOT to make sure your gang can get their goods to other towns. Use your math skills to add or subtract the loss/profit you can make on a run depending on your repairs and refueling costs.

Unlike the "Check the Noticeboard" missions, you have no idea who is paying you or how vocal they are about who works for them. (The vocal ones will make your life HELL because every Pirate and their brother knows what you are carrying!)

Choose a mission and let the screen refresh... THEN add the mission to your squad and take your chances like the rest of us!

Scout Leading Guide

2011-02-17T00:31:45Z

JD: Minor typos and clairty additions

Being a successful scout leader is no big deal, but it usually follows a procedure that can be considered as "unwritten law of scout leading".

The most important part is to know the [[Initial_Scout_Guide|Initial Scout Guide]], if you want to survive the wastes.
Then you should have '''joined more than a few scouts''' of more experienced players, which gives you some fast cash and experience. Also you will already know the common procedure of scouts.
And, '''make sure that you have the time to lead the scout''' and don't forget to calculate a possible return encounter after the main even.

==Form a squad==

To start a scout you need ''- of course -'' a scout squad. You can form new squad on the website under "Squads". After clicking "squads" from the site, you will see "Create squad in (town)" as well as a list of squads of other players that you are a member of. Choose the "Create squad" in the town you wish to scout from, try to make the squad name easy to remember.

Dark-Wind players are a creative crowd so the common password for scout squads is "1234".

After setting your password, the screen will change to show the original squad page with your newly activated squad. Click your squad and click the "join" button. As the owner you '''STILL''' have to join the squad but need not add the password. Once you have joined the squad, you can add your combat vehicles. (Make sure you have an engine, guns, ammo, tires, gunners and a driver before adding the car to your squad) In short, double check EVERYTHING! Even the Veterans have gone out scouting without one or more of the above mentioned necessities because they were in a hurry!!

Once you have vehicles in the squad you can exit the web-site and go back to the client/game-generator.

Once back in the client, look above the list of players. Look for "My scouting squad". Click my scouting squad, you'll notice your new squad in the upper left. Pick the squad that you just formed. NOW you can ask others to join your squad and see their added vehicles in your squad.

One of the ways to switch around to the webpage and the lobby is alt-tab. use whichever method you find the easiest.

==The 'My Scouting Squad' Button==
Try using the [[My Scouting Squad]] button to set up the scout. It can get people to the scout page quicker,and tell you who is in and who is ready.

==Announce the scout in the chat ==
State the squad, password and the city it takes place and in case you want to go after traders rather than pirates mention it, cos not everybody wants to mess up his reputation by hunting traders.

==Remember a scout character==
If you don't put a scout character in ask the others to bring a scout or doom may come over your squad.

==Wait till everybody is ready==
'''"IN AND READY"''' is the most common reply from other players in your squad who have double checked their set ups and are ready for the scout.

When players join don't start the scout before you get a ready from every player! Players fiddle with their car/character setups and it can bring you in hell if you start the scout when some players haven't finished their setup.

if the players joined by clicking your name in the lower left and selecting scouting squad, you'll notice in the upper left there name will change color to white. that means that they are ready and have clicked the ready button. Not all players currently join by this method. simply ask the players to join this way, or if they still do not, just ask if the are ready

==Start the Scout==
You start the scout by pressing the web-page button in the upper upper left. your default browser will open or a new tab in the web browser you currently have open will open. You'll see the main page displayed as your scouting squad.

==Select your Primary Target==

intercept weaker pirates
intercept NPC traders
intercept players
or any other hunt-able NPC gangs, the higher the NPC gangs fame the harder they will be.

==Miles you Wish to Scout==

remember you cannot go anymore than half the distance the whole squad has fuel for. The further you go the better you will train your scout and the easier the NPCs will be. NPCs like to hang around the towns and close to their supplies. The further out NPCs are most likely traveling between towns. The further you go the longer it will take to return. getting a return does not increase with distance, the chance is still the same. The maximum you can go is 50 miles regardless of how much fuel you have. The default is 25 miles.

==Choose the Faction you Wish to Hunt for==

choose the number of miles you wish to scout. remember you cannot go anymore than half the distance the whole squad has fuel for. The further you go the better you will train your scout and the easier the NPCs will be. NPCs like to hang around the towns and close to their supplies. The further out NPCs are most likely traveling between towns. The further you go the longer it will take to return. getting a return does not increase with distance, the chance is still the same. The maximum you can go is 50 miles regardless of how much fuel you have.

==Scout Direction==

from somerset: [[Elmsfield]] is easier than [[gateway]]. you can also scout towards any camps that you are member of

from [[Elmsfield]]: [[somerset]] is easier than [[gateway]]. you can also scout towards any camps that you are member of

from [[gateway]]: [[somerset]] is easier than [[Elmsfield]] and [[Badlands Truck Stop]]. [[Elmsfield]] is easier than [[Badlands Truck Stop]]. scouting towards [[Badlands Truck Stop]] is the hardest. you can also scout towards any camps that you are member of.

from [[Badlands Truck Stop]]: [[gateway]] is the easiest. all others are difficult.

all southern towns have equal difficulty. The higher the NPC gangs fame, the harder they will be.

==The Event Starts==

You have to wait for the server to start your scout event.

You have until the time you see and hear the player '''JD Basher's''' (the voice of dark-wind) Head appear and give you advice along with telling you the scout is up on the server to make any changes to the scout. You can go back to the web-page with your scout squad and stop scouting outside town. You may want to do this if someone asks to join the scout that didn't do it before you selected to scout outside town. They cannot join until you stop the scout. After they join and signify they are ready, you can then begin the process to Start the Scout again.

When '''JD's''' head appears you cannot stop the scout. If anyone wishes the join they will not be able to. The best way to tell them they cannot join is to say the server already started. This is better than just saying no.

There will be a box that pops up in a few minutes to allow you to play the scout event. You can close this box but to then to play the event you will have to select the Live Events tab in the center of the lobby and pick your event.

When the event starts nobody awaits that the leader lays down the tactic so there's no problem to ask for a plan. Most experienced players know what to do, anyway. Also check the enemies setup in the event window. Pickups often mean Rocket launchers and they can hurt. Prime targets!

==After-show and travel processing==
[[Looting]] commences as usual - everybody gets what he can grab if nothing else was decided.
After an event server has closed you have to process the scout squad on your squad page, because it might be possible that you get a return encounter. Also, nobody will get home when you don't finish the travel.

If there's no return encounter announce that to your joiners so everybody knows that they are "dismissed", or if there's a return encounter.
----

[[Category: Guides]]
[[Category: New Player]]
[[Category: Start Up]]

Talk:Tires

2011-02-16T23:11:15Z

JD: Created page with 'Bullet Magnet Not sure making a dedicated page is required as an addition to the wiki but if it only appears on the tires page, I'm pretty sure not very many people will see it …'

Looting

2011-02-16T22:52:46Z

JD: /* FAQ */ typo fixed

The looting phase begins when all enemy vehicles become 'Demoralised' (previously indicated by 'Wishes to Surrender!').

Looting is handled in Round-Robin fashion with the starting player, and loot order, being determined randomly.

The Looting screen is shown below.

[[File:detailed_loot_screen.jpg|500px]]

== Usage ==
The Looting screen is divided into four areas:
* Lootable Items - a bucket of items that can be looted. Lootable items include weapons and car parts salvaged from cars, tyres, drivable enemy vehicles, maps to camps, ammunition, and anything else that may have been carried as cargo. Virtually anything you can buy in a town could appear as a lootable item.
* Carless characters - a holding area for characters who have no vehicle (Though if you are moving a character to put into another car put him in Temporary Area to do so). These characters will need a lift back to town.
* Temporary Area - a holding area for your loot. You can put loot items here so you can determine how best to fill your cars to maximize use of your free space.
* Your Vehicles - an area displaying vehicles you own. This will include any you started with (provided they weren't destroyed in the fighting), and any you've acquired through the looting process.
* Car's Contents - appears to the right of the Your Vehicles area when you have clicked on one of your cars, and shows the contents of the selected vehicle

To 'loot' an item simply click on it in the ''Lootable Items'' area, and drag it to either the ''Temporary Area'', or to the ''Car's Contents'' area if you have previously clicked on a car.

== Warnings ==
Beneath the ''Your Vehicles'' section is a space for ''Warnings''. Messages in this area will notify you of problems with your current loot 'configuration'. For instance, if one of your loot cars does not have a driver, a message will be shown here to remind you of that. Similarly, if you leave people in the ''Carless Characters'' area, or anything in the ''Temporary Area'', a message will appear to indicate the loss of those items if you exit the looting phase without correcting the issues.

== Secondary Activities ==
During the loot phase players can perform the following actions by right-clicking each vehicle and selecting from the drop down menu:
* Refuel from enemy vehicles - The chat log will display the success or failure of the refueling attempt: 'OK, vehicle has been refueled', or 'No siphonable fuel available' (or something like that)
* Replace damaged tyres - The chat log will display how many tyres were replaced: 'X tyres were replaced' (this only occurs if you have tyres in that vehicle)
* Reload weapons - The chat log will display weapon reload status: '<specific> weapon was reloaded' (this only occurs if you have the appropriate ammo in that vehicle; only weapons with less than 50% of a full load will be reloaded; any ammo in the weapon at the time is lost)

== Etiquette ==
Because looting order is determined randomly, looting etiquette is generally 'first-come, first-served'. Occasionally, a player will request specific items, and then it becomes a group decision about whether or not to grant the player's request.

The only possible exception to this is the distribution of vehicles. It is considered polite, fair, or good sportsmanship (pick the term you are most comfortable with) to allow each member of the squad to have one vehicle if there are enough to go around. In other words, if your turn comes around again, and you've already received a vehicle, you should make sure all other members of the squad have had the opportunity to take a vehicle before taking another.

Squad members who have had their vehicles destroyed are sometimes given priority for vehicle selection so they can get their characters back to town (if they are alive).

== Splits ==
Sometimes, and most often with new players who are just starting out, squad members will agree to split any loot proceeds. This means that upon returning to town any loot vehicles will be sold to the mechanic in town (rather than to a player) and the proceeds will be split among the squad members.

The practice is becoming increasingly rare as squads get bigger because a) it is more difficult to keep track of who to distribute money to, and b) in larger squads there are usually enough vehicles that all members receive at least one.
== FAQ ==
'''Q. How do I move people between cars?'''

''A. Drag the person to the temporary items area from the car they are in. Then select the car you want them in and drag them to the Car's contents.''

'''Q. How much room do I have?'''

''A. Hovering over any car in the looting screen will give you information about its condition and how much available space it has. Hovering over an item shows how much space it takes and its condition.''

'''Q. What should I take?'''

''A. This really depends on a combination of factors, but generally look for items with good value (this can be learned by perusing the for sale items in the local flea market) that will fit in your car(s). With vehicles it depends but generally any car is better than no car. You '''can''' leave your rental in wilderness, but you will lose your $5000 deposit. This usually isn't a good idea because only rarely is a loot car going to be worth more than $5000. If you want to abandon your rental, be sure to drag it to the available items in case another player has an extra driver. This is an easy profit for them (assuming you don't have a character available). Also, keep a look out for the specific type of ammo your guns use. you'll more than likely need to reload your guns before a return encounter.''

'''Q. How is the loot order determined?'''

''A. Randomly''

''Note: If you take too long (period of time unknown) the game will skip your turn and proceed to the next person. Usually only happens if you have no idea what to take and try to have a conversation about it. Once you become more familiar with looting it isn't an issue.

'''Q. Can I do secondary activities at any time or only when it is my turn to loot?'''

''A. You can do secondary activities at any time. If the menu doesn't come up right away, try again. It can sometimes take several tries to see it. You can also move loot to and from the temporary area at any time (i.e. ammo can be moved between your own cars to use for weapon reloads)''

[[Category: New Player]]
[[Category: Scouting]]

Tires

2011-02-16T22:25:44Z

JD: Added "Bullet Magnet" description to the tires page.

There are 4 tire types currently available in Darkwind.

== Standard Tires==
These tires are for general driving and racing in and around the towns of Darkwind. Cheap cost and cheap construction make these the most available tire in any town. The standard tire is good for all types of driving but can be easily damaged on certain types of terrain. Excellent traction on almost every surface make this the tire of choice for tracks sporting multiple terrain, ie: sand, tarmac and packed gravel.

== Off-Road Tires ==
These tires are '''excellent''' for running between towns! The MANY types of terrain encountered between towns requires a '''specialized''' combination of traction, slip resistance and speed offered by the off-road rubber. The higher cost and the better construction of this tire reflects the need for better 'between-town' terrain tire survivability. This tire is obviously meant for off road driving and its performance on Tarmac and packed roadways lacks the abilities of the Standard tire in both acceleration and grip on the road surface.

At this time, this type of tire is '''matched''' only by the '''reinforced tire''' in dealing with non-combat damage done to tires on the different surfaces offered on the roads between all the towns in Darkwind.

== Reinforced Tires ==

Reinforced tires have less grip than the other tire types, but they're much more resistant to damage. Their higher cost also reflects the need for puncture resistance. Terrain/flame/projectile and skid damage resistance enhance this tires' capabilities in combat both on track and in the wilderness.

At this time, this type of tire '''is COMPLETELY unmatched''' in dealing with both non-combat '''AND''' combat damage done by both terrain and weapon fire encountered on ANY map encountered in Darkwind.

== Racing Slicks ==

Slicks are the weakest type of tire, although slightly more resistant to skid damage. Slicks are excellent on road surfaces and are mainly intended for racing. Racing Slicks are also the most expensive tires in Darkwind.

== Bullet Magnets ==

It has been verified that when a vehicle is in combat and has or is about to suffer armor breaches '''AND''' is carrying one or more tire(s) in the cargo area, these tires will '''SOMETIMES''' take the critical hits that may have otherwise been transferred to the occupants or the extra ammo carried.

This "bullet-magnet" effect '''DOES NOT''' occur every time but occurs with enough frequency for cargo stored tires to be a useful tactical addition when your cars armor has been or is about to breached. A 100% tire will tend to attract more internal damage to itself than a 75% damaged tire.
----

As with ANY tire, the speed of your vehicle when encountering any damage producing obstacle, projectile or skid, will determine the amount of damage inflicted.

The higher the speed, the more damage taken.
----

[[Category: Tires]]
[[Category: Vehicles]]

Nitrous Booster

2011-02-08T22:34:53Z

JD: minor wording changes

This can be a tactically useful addition to your car and is not considered a weapon for the purposes of [[Race]]s. It takes space like a weapon though.

When used, the [[Nitrous Booster]] will increase your speed by up to 15mph per turn for approximately 3 turns.
Be '''VERY''' careful when and where you use this booster. You can '''EASILY''' lose control of your car if you are in a turn or you have the wheel turned even slightly.

Unlike other weapons, it doesn't matter where you mount a Nitrous Booster.

Using the booster will ''dirty'' your engine lowering the effective horsepower and speed/acceleration. This means that you will see your engine take temporary damage from use. This damage is removed after the event.

[[Category: Weapons]]

Roadrunner

2011-02-08T22:19:51Z

JD: minor wording changes

Handles like a heavy [[Phoenix]] or [[Buccaneer]], with the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the down-force supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it!
If you do, you'll be pleasantly surprised at it's armor capacity and bulk available.

---------------------
You can try out this car by making a custom event and specifying either the "[[Speed Bird]]" with nitrous boost in non-combat races, or the "[[Flame Runner]]" with left and rear Flame Throwers in a death-race.

This beauty can put so many ponies under the hood, pegging the speedometer to the top number is '''EASY!''' Be careful while racing this car.

Table of chassis

2011-02-08T22:14:53Z

JD: /* Muscle */ Added "often seen as Flame Runner, Speed Bird" to the Roadrunner vehicle description page

== Table Legend ==
=== Weapon mounting locations ===
* FR = Front
* RE = Rear
* LE = Left
* RI = Right

=== Chassis Toughness ===
(from weakest to strongest)
* Weak
* Moderate
* Strong
* Very Strong
* Super Strong

A chassis' toughness directly affects how much damage 1 point of armor (of any class) will absorb. For instance, 1 point of armor on a '''Weak''' chassis may be destroyed after 1 hit from a Machine Gun, while 1 point of armor on a '''Super Strong''' chassis may be destroyed after 3 hits. ''These numbers are made up, and used only for illustrative purposes.'' Also when comparing two chassis with the same toughness rating, one can still be slightly tougher than the other.

== Sub-Compact ==
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
!Image !! Chassis !! Bulk !! Engine !! Max Engine !! Weight !! Max Engine !! Max Exposed !! Max Armor !! Max Per Side !! Weapon Mounts !! Rarity !! Toughness !! Seats
|-
| [[File:Marley.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Marley]]
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 30
|align = "center"| 36
|align = "center"| 780
|align = "center"| 1.6L
|align = "center"| 1.8L
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 15
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 2
|-
!Often seen as
|colspan = "13"| [[Bantam]]
|-
| [[File:Alpha.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center|[[Alpha|Alpha]]
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 20
|align = "center"| 24
|align = "center"| 765
|align = "center"| 1L
|align = "center"| 1.2L
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 15
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Extremely Common
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
| [[File:Racoon.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"|[[Raccoon]]
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 20
|align = "center"| 24
|align = "center"| 775
|align = "center"| 1L
|align = "center"| 1.2L
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 15
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Extremely Common
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
| [[File:Sonic.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Sonic]]
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 25
|align = "center"| 30
|align = "center"| 770
|align = "center"| 1.2L
|align = "center"| 1.6L
|align = "center"| 80
|align = "center"| 20
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Quite Common
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 2
|-
!Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Desert Siren]]
|-
| [[File:Cadrona.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Cadrona]]
|align = "center"| 85
|align = "center"| 26
|align = "center"| 31.2
|align = "center"| 730
|align = "center"| 1.2L
|align = "center"| 1.6L
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 15
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Extremely Common
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 2
|}

== Cargo ==
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
!Image !! Chassis !! Bulk !! Engine !! Max Engine !! Weight !! Max Engine !! Max Exposed !! Max Armor !! Max Per Side !! Weapon Mounts !! Rarity !! Toughness !! Seats
|-
| [[File:Carrier_Van.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Carrier Van]]
|align = "center"| 420
|align = "center"| 70
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 2300
|align = "center"| 3.2L V8
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 104
|align = "center"| 26
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LEx2, RIx2
|align = "center"| Very Common
|align = "center"| Weak
|align = "center"| 8
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Texas Strongarm]]
|-
| [[File:Two-Axle Lorry.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Two Axle Lorry]]
|align = "center"| 2500
|align = "center"| 160
|align = "center"| 192
|align = "center"| 6000
|align = "center"| 8L
|align = "center"| 9.4L
|align = "center"| 200
|align = "center"| 50
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LEx2, RIx2
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Weak
|align = "center"| 8
|-
| [[File:Box_Van.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Box Van]]
|align = "center"| 550
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 108
|align = "center"| 2500
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 5L V8
|align = "center"| 96
|align = "center"| 24
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LEx2, RIx2
|align = "center"| Quite Common
|align = "center"| Moderate
|align = "center"| 10
|-
!Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Boxer]]
|-
| [[File:bus.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Bus]]
|align = "center"| 900
|align = "center"| 135
|align = "center"| 162
|align = "center"| 4000
|align = "center"| 7L
|align = "center"| 8L
|align = "center"| 140
|align = "center"| 35
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LEx2, RIx2
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Weak
|align = "center"| 30
|}

== Combat ==
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Image !! Chassis !! Bulk !! Engine !! Max Engine !! Weight !! Max Engine !! Max Exposed !! Max Armor !! Max Per Side !! Weapon Mounts !! Rarity !! Toughness !! Seats
|-
| [[File:Apache.jpg|110px]]
|align = "center"| [[Apache]]
|align = "center"| 270
|align = "center"| 75
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 2400
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| N/A
|align = "center"| 132
|align = "center"| 33
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Quite Common
|align = "center"| Super Strong
|align = "center"| 6
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Punisher]], [[Gallowglass]]
|-
| [[File:Landrunner.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Landrunner]]
|align = "center"| 260
|align = "center"| 70
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 2250
|align = "center"| 3.2L V8
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 136
|align = "center"| 34
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Common
|align = "center"| Super Strong
|align = "center"| 6
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Desert Tank]]
|-
| [[File:hearse.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Hearse]]
|align = "center"| 250
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 72
|align = "center"| 2250
|align = "center"| 3.2L
|align = "center"| 3.2L V8
|align = "center"| 120
|align = "center"| 30
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LEx2, RIx2
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Very Strong
|align = "center"| 6
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Hellfire]]
|-
| [[File:Pickup.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Pickup]]
|align = "center"| 225
|align = "center"| 50
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 1600
|align = "center"| 2L
|align = "center"| 3.2L
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 21
|align = "center"| FRx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Extremely Common
|align = "center"| Very Strong
|align = "center"| 2
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Mutant Masher]], [[Mutant Marauder]]
|-
| [[File:Chomper.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Chomper]]
|align = "center"| 200
|align = "center"| 55
|align = "center"| 66
|align = "center"| 1700
|align = "center"| 2.5L
|align = "center"| 3.2L V8
|align = "center"| 112
|align = "center"| 28
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Common
|align = "center"| Very Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Desert Stalker]], [[Blitzer]]
|-
| [[File:Ambulance.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Ambulance]]
|align = "center"| 500
|align = "center"| 160
|align = "center"| 192
|align = "center"| 2500
|align = "center"| 8L
|align = "center"| 9.4L
|align = "center"| 160
|align = "center"| 40
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LEx2, RIx2
|align = "center"| Ultra Rare
|align = "center"| Super Strong
|align = "center"| 10
|-
| [[File:Fire Engine.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Fire Engine]]
|align = "center"| 1000
|align = "center"| 200
|align = "center"| 240
|align = "center"| 4500
|align = "center"| 9.4L
|align = "center"| N/A
|align = "center"| 200
|align = "center"| 50
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LEx2, RIx2
|align = "center"| Ultra Rare
|align = "center"| Super Strong
|align = "center"| 10
|-
| [[File:buzzer.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Buzzer]]
|align = "center"| 330
|align = "center"| 95
|align = "center"| 114
|align = "center"| 3000
|align = "center"| 5L
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 152
|align = "center"| 38
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Rare
|align = "center"| Super Strong
|align = "center"| 6
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Buzz This!]], [[Dragon's Breath]]
|-
| [[File:Big Pickup.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Big Pickup]]
|align = "center"| 320
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 108
|align = "center"| 2600
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 112
|align = "center"| 28
|align = "center"| FRx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Very Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
| [[File:Wurzel.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Wurzel]]
|align = "center"| 220
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 108
|align = "center"| 2900
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 120
|align = "center"| 30
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Quite Common
|align = "center"| Super Strong
|align = "center"| 2
|}

== Misc ==
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Image !! Chassis !! Bulk !! Engine !! Max Engine !! Weight !! Max Engine !! Max Exposed !! Max Armor !! Max Per Side !! Weapon Mounts !! Rarity !! Toughness !! Seats
|-
| [[File:Offroad_Buggy.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Offroad Buggy]]
|align = "center"| 65
|align = "center"| 20
|align = "center"| 24
|align = "center"| 550
|align = "center"| 1L
|align = "center"| 1.2L
|align = "center"| 40
|align = "center"| 10
|align = "center"| FR, RE, LE
|align = "center"| Quite Common
|align = "center"| Very Strong
|align = "center"| 1
|-
| [[File:Dustup.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Dustup]]
|align = "center"| 80
|align = "center"| 30
|align = "center"| 36
|align = "center"| 800
|align = "center"| 1.6
|align = "center"| 1.8
|align = "center"| 88
|align = "center"| 22
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Quite Common
|align = "center"| Very Strong
|align = "center"| 2
|-
| [[File:estate.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Estate]]
|align = "center"| 230
|align = "center"| 35
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 1600
|align = "center"| 1.8L
|align = "center"| 3.2L
|align = "center"| 72
|align = "center"| 18
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Common
|align = "center"| Weak
|align = "center"| 6
|-
| [[File:Semi_Tractor.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Semi Tractor]]
|align = "center"| 200
|align = "center"| 180
|align = "center"| 216
|align = "center"| 1750
|align = "center"| 8L
|align = "center"| 8L
|align = "center"| 100
|align = "center"| 25
|align = "center"| FRx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Moderate
|align = "center"| 3
|-
| [[File:Trash_Truck.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Trash Truck]]
|align = "center"| 1500
|align = "center"| 160
|align = "center"| 192
|align = "center"| 7500
|align = "center"| 8L
|align = "center"| 9.4L
|align = "center"| 200
|align = "center"| 50
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LEx2, RIx2
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Super Strong
|align = "center"| 6
|-
| [[File:Tanker.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Tanker]]
|align = "center"| 1000
|align = "center"| 160
|align = "center"| 192
|align = "center"| 4800
|align = "center"| 8L
|align = "center"| 9.4L
|align = "center"| 144
|align = "center"| 36
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LEx2, RIx2
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
| [[File:Motorhome.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Motorhome]]
|align = "center"| 590
|align = "center"| 95
|align = "center"| 114
|align = "center"| 3300
|align = "center"| 5L
|align = "center"| 5Lv12
|align = "center"| 132
|align = "center"| 33
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LEx2, RIx2
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Moderate
|align = "center"| 12
|}

== Muscle ==
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
!Image !! Chassis !! Bulk !! Engine !! Max Engine !! Weight !! Max Engine !! Max Exposed !! Max Armor !! Max Per Side !! Weapon Mounts !! Rarity !! Toughness !! Seats !! Min CR
|-
| [[File:Vampire.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Vampire]]
|align = "center"| 160
|align = "center"| 110
|align = "center"| 132
|align = "center"| 1250
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| N/A
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 21
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 2
|align = "center"| 30
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "14"|[[Desert Striker]], [[Constrictor]]
|-
| [[File:Sunrise.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Sunrise]]
|align = "center"| 170
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 108
|align = "center"| 1500
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 21
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Common
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|align = "center"|
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "14"|[[Scorpion]]
|-
| [[File:phoenix.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Phoenix]]
|align = "center"| 170
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 108
|align = "center"| 1500
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 21
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Common
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|align = "center"|
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "14"|[[Desert Flame]], [[Badlander]], [[Longshot]], [[Trade Runner]], [[Chaser]]
|-
| [[File:Buccaneer.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Buccaneer]]
|align = "center"| 170
|align = "center"| 95
|align = "center"| 114
|align = "center"| 1450
|align = "center"| 5L
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 80
|align = "center"| 20
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|align = "center"|
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "14"|[[Wardance]]
|-
| [[File:stormer.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Stormer]]
|align = "center"| 175
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 108
|align = "center"| 1500
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 21
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|align = "center"|
|-
| [[File:moray.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Moray]]
|align = "center"| 175
|align = "center"| 100
|align = "center"| 120
|align = "center"| 1450
|align = "center"| 5L V8
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 80
|align = "center"| 20
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|align = "center"|
|-
| [[File:McFly.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[McFly]]
|align = "center"| 180
|align = "center"| 115
|align = "center"| 138
|align = "center"| 1600
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 7L
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 21
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|align = "center"|
|-
| [[File:Roadrunner.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Roadrunner]]
|align = "center"| 170
|align = "center"| 95
|align = "center"| 114
|align = "center"| 1150
|align = "center"| 5L
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 100
|align = "center"| 25
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Ultra Rare
|align = "center"| Very Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|align = "center"| 36
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "14"|[[Flame Runner]], [[Speed Bird]]
|-
| [[File:Flash.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Flash]]
|align = "center"| 120
|align = "center"| 50
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 1350
|align = "center"| 2L
|align = "center"| 3.2L
|align = "center"| 56
|align = "center"| 14
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Quite Common
|align = "center"| Moderate
|align = "center"| 2
|align = "center"|
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "14"|[[Flashbang]]
|-
| [[File:flail.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Flail]]
|align = "center"| 210
|align = "center"| 100
|align = "center"| 120
|align = "center"| 1800
|align = "center"| 5L V8
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 104
|align = "center"| 26
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Very Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|align = "center"|
|-
| [[File:pike.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Pike]]
|align = "center"| 190
|align = "center"| 105
|align = "center"| 121
|align = "center"| 1600
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| N/A
|align = "center"| 88
|align = "center"| 22
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|align = "center"|
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "14"|[[Wild Hunter]]
|-
| [[File:osprey.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Osprey]]
|align = "center"| 220
|align = "center"| 100
|align = "center"| 120
|align = "center"| 1650
|align = "center"| 5L V8
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 92
|align = "center"| 23
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|align = "center"|
|-
| [[File:Corghette.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Corghette]]
|align = "center"| 165
|align = "center"| 110
|align = "center"| 132
|align = "center"| 1260
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| N/A
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 21
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 2
|align = "center"|
|-
| [[File:squadcar.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Squadcar]]
|align = "center"| 175
|align = "center"| 110
|align = "center"| 132
|align = "center"| 1400
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| N/A
|align = "center"|
|align = "center"|
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Ultra Rare
|align = "center"| Very Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|align = "center"|
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "14"|[[Lasersquad]]
|}

== Race ==
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
! Image !! Chassis !! Bulk !! Engine !! Max Engine !! Weight !! Max Engine !! Max Exposed !! Max Armor !! Max Per Side !! Weapon Mounts !! Rarity !! Toughness !! Seats
|-
| [[File:Bullet.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Bullet]]
|align = "center"| 160
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 108
|align = "center"| 1250
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 21
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Radon Rancher]]
|-
| [[File:Royal Eaton.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Royal Eaton]]
|align = "center"| 170
|align = "center"| 125
|align = "center"| 150
|align = "center"| 1000
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 7L
|align = "center"| 88
|align = "center"| 22
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Rare
|align = "center"| Moderate
|align = "center"| 4
|-
| [[File:DeVille.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[DeVille]]
|align = "center"| 175
|align = "center"| 135
|align = "center"| 162
|align = "center"| 950
|align = "center"| 7L
|align = "center"| 8L
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 21
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Ultra Rare
|align = "center"| Weak
|align = "center"| 2
|-
| [[File:Cougar.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Cougar]]
|align = "center"| 180
|align = "center"| 140
|align = "center"| 168
|align = "center"| 1000
|align = "center"| 7L
|align = "center"| 8L
|align = "center"| 80
|align = "center"| 20
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Ultra Rare
|align = "center"| Weak
|align = "center"| 2
|-
| [[File:McKenzie.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[McKenzie]]
|align = "center"| 150
|align = "center"| 90
|align = "center"| 108
|align = "center"| 550
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 15
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Ultra Rare
|align = "center"| Weak
|align = "center"| 2
|-
| [[File:hotrod.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Hotrod]]
|align = "center"| 125
|align = "center"| 70
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 900
|align = "center"| 3.2L V8
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 80
|align = "center"| 20
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 2
|-
| [[File:turin.png|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Turin]]
|align = "center"| 235
|align = "center"| 120
|align = "center"| 144
|align = "center"| 1650
|align = "center"| 5L V12
|align = "center"| 7L
|align = "center"|
|align = "center"|
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Ultra Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 2
|}

== Sedan ==
{|class = "wikitable" border = "1"
!Image !! Chassis !! Bulk !! Engine !! Max Engine !! Weight !! Max Engine !!Max Exposed !! Max Armor !! Max Per Side !! Weapon Mounts !! Rarity !! Toughness !! Seats
|-
| [[File:Symphony.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Symphony]]
|align = "center"| 180
|align = "center"| 50
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 1500
|align = "center"| 2L
|align = "center"| 3.2L
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 21
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Extremely Common
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Blaster]], [[Death Symphony]], [[Evan Enforcer]]
|-
| [[File:Moose.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Moose]]
|align = "center"| 195
|align = "center"| 55
|align = "center"| 66
|align = "center"| 1500
|align = "center"| 2.5L
|align = "center"| 3.2L V8
|align = "center"| 88
|align = "center"| 22
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Common
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[http://www.darkwindwiki.com/index.php?title=Antagonist Antagonist], [http://www.darkwindwiki.com/index.php?title=Duellist Duellist]
|-
| [[File:chevalier.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Chevalier]]
|align = "center"| 175
|align = "center"| 50
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 1450
|align = "center"| 2L
|align = "center"| 3.2L
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 21
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Common
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[http://www.darkwindwiki.com/index.php?title=Sir_Rocket Sir Rocket]
|-
| [[File:spirit.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Spirit]]
|align = "center"| 200
|align = "center"| 50
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 1450
|align = "center"| 2L
|align = "center"| 3.2L
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 21
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Quite Common
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[http://www.dark-wind.com/vehicle.php?id=24353 Razorback], [[Poltergeist]]
|-
| [[File:Voyager.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Voyager]]
|align = "center"| 180
|align = "center"| 70
|align = "center"| 84
|align = "center"| 1450
|align = "center"| 3.2L V8
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 80
|align = "center"| 20
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Quite Common
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Eliminator]]
|-
| [[File:mercenary.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Mercenary]]
|align = "center"| 200
|align = "center"| 60
|align = "center"| 72
|align = "center"| 1650
|align = "center"| 3.2L
|align = "center"| 3.2L V8
|align = "center"| 92
|align = "center"| 23
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Very Common
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Mutant Merc]], [[Mutant Runner]]
|-
| [[File:Windsor.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Windsor]]
|align = "center"| 190
|align = "center"| 65
|align = "center"| 78
|align = "center"| 1700
|align = "center"| 3.2L V8
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 100
|align = "center"| 25
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Quite Common (Rare)
|align = "center"| Very Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
| [[File:Windsor_II.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Windsor II]]
|align = "center"| 190
|align = "center"| 65
|align = "center"| 78
|align = "center"| 1600
|align = "center"| 3.2L V8
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 100
|align = "center"| 25
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Quite Common (Rare)
|align = "center"| Very Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|-
! Often seen as
|colspan = "13"|[[Butterfly II]], [[Kern]]
|-
| [[File:fiftyseven.jpg|100px]]
|align = "center"| [[Fiftyseven]]
|align = "center"| 140
|align = "center"| 65
|align = "center"| 78
|align = "center"| 1600
|align = "center"| 3.2L V8
|align = "center"| 4L
|align = "center"| 72
|align = "center"| 18
|align = "center"| FRx2, REx2, LE, RI
|align = "center"| Ultra Rare
|align = "center"| Strong
|align = "center"| 4
|}

[[Category: Chassis]]
[[Category: Vehicles]]

Flame Runner

2011-02-08T22:03:21Z

JD: /* Flame Runner */

== Flame Runner ==

While this version of the [[Roadrunner]] has a 3.2L V8 engine that is NOWHERE near it's engine capacity available, it is still a very speedy bird!

This [[Death Race]] version is equipped with a [[Flamethrower]] in the left door and in the back making the [[Flame Runner]] a favorite on all the counter-clockwise tracks of Evan. Care should be used when trying to pass an opponent on the inside (left side) or getting too close to their rear bumper where they can light you up to their hearts content.

'''WARNING!''' Any damage taken by either [[Flamethrower]] dramatically increases the ''chance'' that your car will explode! If you are using highly skilled gangers and the weapons get damaged, you might consider just resigning the race and getting them out before the weapons detonate littering the track with your destroyed car.

A weapon exploding is not a certainty, but it's better to be safe than sorry when you are talking about very skilled gang members.

Flame Runner

2011-02-08T22:02:19Z

JD: added info on the Flame Runner

== Flame Runner ==

While this version of the [[Roadrunner]] has a 3.2L V8 engine that is NOWHERE near it's engine capacity available, it is still a very speedy bird!

This [[Death Race]] version is equipped with a [[Flamethrower]] in the left door and in the back making the Flame Runner a favorite on all the counter-clockwise tracks of Evan. Care should be used when trying to pass an opponent on the inside (left side) or getting too close to their rear bumper where they can light you up to their hearts content.

'''WARNING!''' Any damage taken by either [[Flamethrower]] dramatically increases the ''chance'' that your car will explode! If you are using highly skilled gangers and the weapons get damaged, you might consider just resigning the race and getting them out before the weapons detonate littering the track with your destroyed car.

A weapon exploding is not a certainty, but it's better to be safe than sorry when you are talking about very skilled gang members.

Roadrunner

2011-02-08T21:24:44Z

JD: deleted the "redline comment and added "pegging the speedometer to the top number"

Handles like a heavy [[Phoenix]] or [[Buccaneer]], with the chassis strength of a [[Chomper]]. With the addition of a HUGE motor capacity, this car might fly if not for the downforce supplied by the extraordinarily large rear wing.

It is VERY rare to find one of these beautiful cars. You might not want to risk it ANYWHERE once you do find it!
If you do, you'll be pleasantly surprised at it's armor capacity and bulk available.

---------------------
You can try out this car by making a custom event and specifying either the "Speed-Bird" with nitrous boost in non-combat races, or the "Flame-Runner" with left and rear Flame Throwers in a death-race.

This beauty has so many ponies under the hood, pegging the speedometer to the top number is '''EASY!''' Be careful while racing this car.

Scouting (activity)

2011-02-04T02:57:49Z

JD: /* Auto-Escape */

''Scouting'' is getting a group of players together, forming a squad, and going out into the wilderness to fight either NPC pirates or NPC traders. It is not necessary to get a group together, but scouting in a group is usually safer than scouting solo, and is more fun (more often than not).

== Factors in Scouting ==
There are several things that affect what we encounter on scouts.

=== Place of Origin for a Scout ===
Starting out, the town you are now in is Somerset, you will probably be scouting from here as you try to make your name in Darkwind. Each town and camp has a different difficulty level associated with them for scouting. Scouting farther distances from towns will mean meeting an enemy with more firepower.

=== Scouting Distance ===
The distance you travel on your scout affects how strong an enemy force you may encounter, the further out you go the more selective you are. As a result, longer scout distances will often result in a more advantageous (read: equitable/dangerous) encounter. The minimum return time from a scout is 1 hour, it increases if you go out farther than 20 miles.

The furthest you can go during a scout is 50 miles. Remember you need enough fuel to go '''and''' come back (i.e. enough to travel 100 miles if you scout 50 miles out)!

=== Scouting Direction ===
The direction you choose from your town or camp can affect the firepower you encounter. Heading toward a 'safer' town will mean slightly less firepower, while heading towards more dangerous places will raise the firepower you come across. For new people, I suggest joining one of the camps north of Somerset and scouting towards it.

=== Scouting Skill ===
This affects how much firepower you will come across. More scouting skill means fairer fights, or occasionally an advantage for the player. This only counts the best scout in the group; having more than one scout won't help.

=== Other Factors ===
Some other factors are the vehicle the scout is riding in, and the size of the scout. Putting your scout into a smaller more mobile vehicle may get you a fairer fight. A larger scouting group may get you slightly worse odds.

=== Examples ===

Slidewrx:
''With my two Windy II cars at about 300 CR, I would head out of Somerset toward the Slack Shack. Going 25 miles out, with a 90 scout means I would get roughly equal or slightly good odds. I would be fighting 250-300 CR opponents. 250 CR is the minimum enconter, so it might have been better odds if I brought more vehicles to raise my CR.''

''With the same crew I would head out from Somerset toward Gateway (again 25 miles, 90 scout), and I would encounter 275-325 CR opponents.''

''I drove them to Gateway and started scouting there. Scouting From Gateway, toward Somerset, I went out 50 miles with my now 99 scout, and I regularly encounter ~450 CR opponents! This is with the same 300 CR pair of Windy II's. There are also more return encounters. I need to raise my scouting skill before I go any further I think.''

== Solo Scouting ==
Scouting solo means scouting without other players in the squad. It often means scouting with a single car, but many players who solo scout use multiple vehicles. For more information about solo scouting, read the [[Solo Scouting|Ultimate Guide to an Early Grave]].

== Encounters ==
General information about encounters can be found on the [[Encounters]] page.

== After-action Report ==
A scouting event can have four possible outcomes:

# You win (All opponent cars Demoralized)
# You lose (All your cars Demoralized)
# You run away (Escape at 350m or auto escape at 500m)
# The enemy runs away (Escape at 350m or auto escape at 500m. It also asks if you want to let them go and then they escape immediately.)

=== Winning ===
If you win the event by demoralizing all the enemy cars and pedestrians or causing them to run away, you will be allowed to loot the remaining enemy vehicles.

Detailed information about looting is on the [[Looting]] page.

=== Losing ===
If you lose the event, and you have surviving characters, they will form a ''footsquad'', and start to walk back to town.
Walking back to town is ten times (10x) slower than driving, and it is highly probable that your ''footsquad'' will have at least one encounter with the [[fauna|creatures]] in the area, or groups of on-foot bandits or mutants.

The walk back to town also exposes your characters to the aurora (they are protected while in their vehicles) and the blistering sun. As a result, characters who have to walk may become sick due to radiation poisoning and/or sunstroke. Stronger characters will be less affected by the environment than weaker characters.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure to equip each of your characters with a personal weapon, otherwise they will have to fight any encounters unarmed.

If your characters have formed a ''footsquad'' any encounters it has can be initiated from your gang's '''Squads''' page.

'''NOTE:''' Anyone with a character in the ''footsquad'' can initiate the encounters as there is no designated ''squad owner'' as there is with vehicle squads.

=== Running Away ===
When you reach '''more than''' 350 meters from the nearest opponent you have the option to ''Escape from combat''. This is available via each vehicle's contextual menu (Top right screen click-pull-down), and will remove the vehicle from the map at the start of the next turn. When all of your vehicles have escaped the event ends.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure you do not abandon any demoralized vehicles or you could end up losing the combat rather than simply running away.

=== Auto-Escape ===
When any vehicle passes the 500 meter distance from the closest enemy they will automatically be removed from the map at the start of the next turn. This applies to both your vehicles and the NPC's.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure you do not abandon any demoralized vehicles or you could end up losing the combat rather than simply running away.

=== Town Safety Zones ===
There is a safety zone around each town (except Firelight) that simulates the desire of the general populace to keep the warfare out of the town proper.

When your vehicle is within this zone you will receive a message that your car is within the town limits and can escape safely. It is not necessary to be beyond the 350m escape distance in order to escape safely into a town.

It is important to note that the NPC vehicles have this capability as well, and they will use it if they become demoralized or if they are "losing" the battle and decide to escape. As a result, it is not uncommon to have enemy cars disappear in the middle of the combat if you are fighting close to the city limits.

Firelight is currently the only town without a safety zone. When attempting to escape 'into the city' you must reach the standard escape distance of 350 meters regardless of your proximity to the city walls, gates, or buildings.

'''NOTE:''' The town safety zones do '''not''' exist/function when participating in the Militia v. Pirates Town Defense PvP events.

=== Process the Return ===

The squad owner must process the return to finish the scout. There may or not be a return encounter. The squad owner can eliminate an encounter event being generated by the server by placing a checkmark in the Accept truces from all NPC traders box. If the squad owner wishes not have an encounter event generated for friendly factions encounter, the squad owner can place a checkmark in the Accept truces from all members of friendly factions box. It is not necessary these boxes be checked but if the squad owner wants to save time they can do so. The boxes can be checked or unchecked at any time before processing the next encounter whether it be a return or the initial scout.

=== How to process for a return if the squad owner doesn't process the return ===

If you go on a scout and the owner of the squad doesn't process the return you can do it yourself.

you can use the split squad option. click the split squad button below the list of vehicles and put your vehicles in a new split squad.

then a new squad will be created called split (name of the squad here) then you can process the return.

[[Category: Events]]
[[Category: New Player]]
[[Category: Scouting]]
[[Category: Scouts]]

Scouting (activity)

2011-02-04T02:55:42Z

JD: /* Running Away */

''Scouting'' is getting a group of players together, forming a squad, and going out into the wilderness to fight either NPC pirates or NPC traders. It is not necessary to get a group together, but scouting in a group is usually safer than scouting solo, and is more fun (more often than not).

== Factors in Scouting ==
There are several things that affect what we encounter on scouts.

=== Place of Origin for a Scout ===
Starting out, the town you are now in is Somerset, you will probably be scouting from here as you try to make your name in Darkwind. Each town and camp has a different difficulty level associated with them for scouting. Scouting farther distances from towns will mean meeting an enemy with more firepower.

=== Scouting Distance ===
The distance you travel on your scout affects how strong an enemy force you may encounter, the further out you go the more selective you are. As a result, longer scout distances will often result in a more advantageous (read: equitable/dangerous) encounter. The minimum return time from a scout is 1 hour, it increases if you go out farther than 20 miles.

The furthest you can go during a scout is 50 miles. Remember you need enough fuel to go '''and''' come back (i.e. enough to travel 100 miles if you scout 50 miles out)!

=== Scouting Direction ===
The direction you choose from your town or camp can affect the firepower you encounter. Heading toward a 'safer' town will mean slightly less firepower, while heading towards more dangerous places will raise the firepower you come across. For new people, I suggest joining one of the camps north of Somerset and scouting towards it.

=== Scouting Skill ===
This affects how much firepower you will come across. More scouting skill means fairer fights, or occasionally an advantage for the player. This only counts the best scout in the group; having more than one scout won't help.

=== Other Factors ===
Some other factors are the vehicle the scout is riding in, and the size of the scout. Putting your scout into a smaller more mobile vehicle may get you a fairer fight. A larger scouting group may get you slightly worse odds.

=== Examples ===

Slidewrx:
''With my two Windy II cars at about 300 CR, I would head out of Somerset toward the Slack Shack. Going 25 miles out, with a 90 scout means I would get roughly equal or slightly good odds. I would be fighting 250-300 CR opponents. 250 CR is the minimum enconter, so it might have been better odds if I brought more vehicles to raise my CR.''

''With the same crew I would head out from Somerset toward Gateway (again 25 miles, 90 scout), and I would encounter 275-325 CR opponents.''

''I drove them to Gateway and started scouting there. Scouting From Gateway, toward Somerset, I went out 50 miles with my now 99 scout, and I regularly encounter ~450 CR opponents! This is with the same 300 CR pair of Windy II's. There are also more return encounters. I need to raise my scouting skill before I go any further I think.''

== Solo Scouting ==
Scouting solo means scouting without other players in the squad. It often means scouting with a single car, but many players who solo scout use multiple vehicles. For more information about solo scouting, read the [[Solo Scouting|Ultimate Guide to an Early Grave]].

== Encounters ==
General information about encounters can be found on the [[Encounters]] page.

== After-action Report ==
A scouting event can have four possible outcomes:

# You win (All opponent cars Demoralized)
# You lose (All your cars Demoralized)
# You run away (Escape at 350m or auto escape at 500m)
# The enemy runs away (Escape at 350m or auto escape at 500m. It also asks if you want to let them go and then they escape immediately.)

=== Winning ===
If you win the event by demoralizing all the enemy cars and pedestrians or causing them to run away, you will be allowed to loot the remaining enemy vehicles.

Detailed information about looting is on the [[Looting]] page.

=== Losing ===
If you lose the event, and you have surviving characters, they will form a ''footsquad'', and start to walk back to town.
Walking back to town is ten times (10x) slower than driving, and it is highly probable that your ''footsquad'' will have at least one encounter with the [[fauna|creatures]] in the area, or groups of on-foot bandits or mutants.

The walk back to town also exposes your characters to the aurora (they are protected while in their vehicles) and the blistering sun. As a result, characters who have to walk may become sick due to radiation poisoning and/or sunstroke. Stronger characters will be less affected by the environment than weaker characters.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure to equip each of your characters with a personal weapon, otherwise they will have to fight any encounters unarmed.

If your characters have formed a ''footsquad'' any encounters it has can be initiated from your gang's '''Squads''' page.

'''NOTE:''' Anyone with a character in the ''footsquad'' can initiate the encounters as there is no designated ''squad owner'' as there is with vehicle squads.

=== Running Away ===
When you reach '''more than''' 350 meters from the nearest opponent you have the option to ''Escape from combat''. This is available via each vehicle's contextual menu (Top right screen click-pull-down), and will remove the vehicle from the map at the start of the next turn. When all of your vehicles have escaped the event ends.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure you do not abandon any demoralized vehicles or you could end up losing the combat rather than simply running away.

=== Auto-Escape ===
When any vehicles become 500 meters away from the closest enemy they will automatically be removed from the map at the start of the next turn. This applies to both your vehicles and the NPC's.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure you do not abandon any demoralized vehicles or you could end up losing the combat rather than simply running away.

=== Town Safety Zones ===
There is a safety zone around each town (except Firelight) that simulates the desire of the general populace to keep the warfare out of the town proper.

When your vehicle is within this zone you will receive a message that your car is within the town limits and can escape safely. It is not necessary to be beyond the 350m escape distance in order to escape safely into a town.

It is important to note that the NPC vehicles have this capability as well, and they will use it if they become demoralized or if they are "losing" the battle and decide to escape. As a result, it is not uncommon to have enemy cars disappear in the middle of the combat if you are fighting close to the city limits.

Firelight is currently the only town without a safety zone. When attempting to escape 'into the city' you must reach the standard escape distance of 350 meters regardless of your proximity to the city walls, gates, or buildings.

'''NOTE:''' The town safety zones do '''not''' exist/function when participating in the Militia v. Pirates Town Defense PvP events.

=== Process the Return ===

The squad owner must process the return to finish the scout. There may or not be a return encounter. The squad owner can eliminate an encounter event being generated by the server by placing a checkmark in the Accept truces from all NPC traders box. If the squad owner wishes not have an encounter event generated for friendly factions encounter, the squad owner can place a checkmark in the Accept truces from all members of friendly factions box. It is not necessary these boxes be checked but if the squad owner wants to save time they can do so. The boxes can be checked or unchecked at any time before processing the next encounter whether it be a return or the initial scout.

=== How to process for a return if the squad owner doesn't process the return ===

If you go on a scout and the owner of the squad doesn't process the return you can do it yourself.

you can use the split squad option. click the split squad button below the list of vehicles and put your vehicles in a new split squad.

then a new squad will be created called split (name of the squad here) then you can process the return.

[[Category: Events]]
[[Category: New Player]]
[[Category: Scouting]]
[[Category: Scouts]]

Scouting (activity)

2011-02-04T02:54:48Z

JD: /* Running Away */

''Scouting'' is getting a group of players together, forming a squad, and going out into the wilderness to fight either NPC pirates or NPC traders. It is not necessary to get a group together, but scouting in a group is usually safer than scouting solo, and is more fun (more often than not).

== Factors in Scouting ==
There are several things that affect what we encounter on scouts.

=== Place of Origin for a Scout ===
Starting out, the town you are now in is Somerset, you will probably be scouting from here as you try to make your name in Darkwind. Each town and camp has a different difficulty level associated with them for scouting. Scouting farther distances from towns will mean meeting an enemy with more firepower.

=== Scouting Distance ===
The distance you travel on your scout affects how strong an enemy force you may encounter, the further out you go the more selective you are. As a result, longer scout distances will often result in a more advantageous (read: equitable/dangerous) encounter. The minimum return time from a scout is 1 hour, it increases if you go out farther than 20 miles.

The furthest you can go during a scout is 50 miles. Remember you need enough fuel to go '''and''' come back (i.e. enough to travel 100 miles if you scout 50 miles out)!

=== Scouting Direction ===
The direction you choose from your town or camp can affect the firepower you encounter. Heading toward a 'safer' town will mean slightly less firepower, while heading towards more dangerous places will raise the firepower you come across. For new people, I suggest joining one of the camps north of Somerset and scouting towards it.

=== Scouting Skill ===
This affects how much firepower you will come across. More scouting skill means fairer fights, or occasionally an advantage for the player. This only counts the best scout in the group; having more than one scout won't help.

=== Other Factors ===
Some other factors are the vehicle the scout is riding in, and the size of the scout. Putting your scout into a smaller more mobile vehicle may get you a fairer fight. A larger scouting group may get you slightly worse odds.

=== Examples ===

Slidewrx:
''With my two Windy II cars at about 300 CR, I would head out of Somerset toward the Slack Shack. Going 25 miles out, with a 90 scout means I would get roughly equal or slightly good odds. I would be fighting 250-300 CR opponents. 250 CR is the minimum enconter, so it might have been better odds if I brought more vehicles to raise my CR.''

''With the same crew I would head out from Somerset toward Gateway (again 25 miles, 90 scout), and I would encounter 275-325 CR opponents.''

''I drove them to Gateway and started scouting there. Scouting From Gateway, toward Somerset, I went out 50 miles with my now 99 scout, and I regularly encounter ~450 CR opponents! This is with the same 300 CR pair of Windy II's. There are also more return encounters. I need to raise my scouting skill before I go any further I think.''

== Solo Scouting ==
Scouting solo means scouting without other players in the squad. It often means scouting with a single car, but many players who solo scout use multiple vehicles. For more information about solo scouting, read the [[Solo Scouting|Ultimate Guide to an Early Grave]].

== Encounters ==
General information about encounters can be found on the [[Encounters]] page.

== After-action Report ==
A scouting event can have four possible outcomes:

# You win (All opponent cars Demoralized)
# You lose (All your cars Demoralized)
# You run away (Escape at 350m or auto escape at 500m)
# The enemy runs away (Escape at 350m or auto escape at 500m. It also asks if you want to let them go and then they escape immediately.)

=== Winning ===
If you win the event by demoralizing all the enemy cars and pedestrians or causing them to run away, you will be allowed to loot the remaining enemy vehicles.

Detailed information about looting is on the [[Looting]] page.

=== Losing ===
If you lose the event, and you have surviving characters, they will form a ''footsquad'', and start to walk back to town.
Walking back to town is ten times (10x) slower than driving, and it is highly probable that your ''footsquad'' will have at least one encounter with the [[fauna|creatures]] in the area, or groups of on-foot bandits or mutants.

The walk back to town also exposes your characters to the aurora (they are protected while in their vehicles) and the blistering sun. As a result, characters who have to walk may become sick due to radiation poisoning and/or sunstroke. Stronger characters will be less affected by the environment than weaker characters.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure to equip each of your characters with a personal weapon, otherwise they will have to fight any encounters unarmed.

If your characters have formed a ''footsquad'' any encounters it has can be initiated from your gang's '''Squads''' page.

'''NOTE:''' Anyone with a character in the ''footsquad'' can initiate the encounters as there is no designated ''squad owner'' as there is with vehicle squads.

=== Running Away ===
When you reach '''more than''' 350 meters from the nearest opponent you have the option to ''Escape from combat''. This is available via each vehicle's contextual menu (Top right screen pull-down), and will remove the vehicle from the map at the start of the next turn. When all of your vehicles have escaped the event ends.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure you do not abandon any demoralized vehicles or you could end up losing the combat rather than simply running away.

=== Auto-Escape ===
When any vehicles become 500 meters away from the closest enemy they will automatically be removed from the map at the start of the next turn. This applies to both your vehicles and the NPC's.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure you do not abandon any demoralized vehicles or you could end up losing the combat rather than simply running away.

=== Town Safety Zones ===
There is a safety zone around each town (except Firelight) that simulates the desire of the general populace to keep the warfare out of the town proper.

When your vehicle is within this zone you will receive a message that your car is within the town limits and can escape safely. It is not necessary to be beyond the 350m escape distance in order to escape safely into a town.

It is important to note that the NPC vehicles have this capability as well, and they will use it if they become demoralized or if they are "losing" the battle and decide to escape. As a result, it is not uncommon to have enemy cars disappear in the middle of the combat if you are fighting close to the city limits.

Firelight is currently the only town without a safety zone. When attempting to escape 'into the city' you must reach the standard escape distance of 350 meters regardless of your proximity to the city walls, gates, or buildings.

'''NOTE:''' The town safety zones do '''not''' exist/function when participating in the Militia v. Pirates Town Defense PvP events.

=== Process the Return ===

The squad owner must process the return to finish the scout. There may or not be a return encounter. The squad owner can eliminate an encounter event being generated by the server by placing a checkmark in the Accept truces from all NPC traders box. If the squad owner wishes not have an encounter event generated for friendly factions encounter, the squad owner can place a checkmark in the Accept truces from all members of friendly factions box. It is not necessary these boxes be checked but if the squad owner wants to save time they can do so. The boxes can be checked or unchecked at any time before processing the next encounter whether it be a return or the initial scout.

=== How to process for a return if the squad owner doesn't process the return ===

If you go on a scout and the owner of the squad doesn't process the return you can do it yourself.

you can use the split squad option. click the split squad button below the list of vehicles and put your vehicles in a new split squad.

then a new squad will be created called split (name of the squad here) then you can process the return.

[[Category: Events]]
[[Category: New Player]]
[[Category: Scouting]]
[[Category: Scouts]]

Scouting (activity)

2011-02-04T02:44:47Z

JD: /* Scouting Distance */

''Scouting'' is getting a group of players together, forming a squad, and going out into the wilderness to fight either NPC pirates or NPC traders. It is not necessary to get a group together, but scouting in a group is usually safer than scouting solo, and is more fun (more often than not).

== Factors in Scouting ==
There are several things that affect what we encounter on scouts.

=== Place of Origin for a Scout ===
Starting out, the town you are now in is Somerset, you will probably be scouting from here as you try to make your name in Darkwind. Each town and camp has a different difficulty level associated with them for scouting. Scouting farther distances from towns will mean meeting an enemy with more firepower.

=== Scouting Distance ===
The distance you travel on your scout affects how strong an enemy force you may encounter, the further out you go the more selective you are. As a result, longer scout distances will often result in a more advantageous (read: equitable/dangerous) encounter. The minimum return time from a scout is 1 hour, it increases if you go out farther than 20 miles.

The furthest you can go during a scout is 50 miles. Remember you need enough fuel to go '''and''' come back (i.e. enough to travel 100 miles if you scout 50 miles out)!

=== Scouting Direction ===
The direction you choose from your town or camp can affect the firepower you encounter. Heading toward a 'safer' town will mean slightly less firepower, while heading towards more dangerous places will raise the firepower you come across. For new people, I suggest joining one of the camps north of Somerset and scouting towards it.

=== Scouting Skill ===
This affects how much firepower you will come across. More scouting skill means fairer fights, or occasionally an advantage for the player. This only counts the best scout in the group; having more than one scout won't help.

=== Other Factors ===
Some other factors are the vehicle the scout is riding in, and the size of the scout. Putting your scout into a smaller more mobile vehicle may get you a fairer fight. A larger scouting group may get you slightly worse odds.

=== Examples ===

Slidewrx:
''With my two Windy II cars at about 300 CR, I would head out of Somerset toward the Slack Shack. Going 25 miles out, with a 90 scout means I would get roughly equal or slightly good odds. I would be fighting 250-300 CR opponents. 250 CR is the minimum enconter, so it might have been better odds if I brought more vehicles to raise my CR.''

''With the same crew I would head out from Somerset toward Gateway (again 25 miles, 90 scout), and I would encounter 275-325 CR opponents.''

''I drove them to Gateway and started scouting there. Scouting From Gateway, toward Somerset, I went out 50 miles with my now 99 scout, and I regularly encounter ~450 CR opponents! This is with the same 300 CR pair of Windy II's. There are also more return encounters. I need to raise my scouting skill before I go any further I think.''

== Solo Scouting ==
Scouting solo means scouting without other players in the squad. It often means scouting with a single car, but many players who solo scout use multiple vehicles. For more information about solo scouting, read the [[Solo Scouting|Ultimate Guide to an Early Grave]].

== Encounters ==
General information about encounters can be found on the [[Encounters]] page.

== After-action Report ==
A scouting event can have four possible outcomes:

# You win (All opponent cars Demoralized)
# You lose (All your cars Demoralized)
# You run away (Escape at 350m or auto escape at 500m)
# The enemy runs away (Escape at 350m or auto escape at 500m. It also asks if you want to let them go and then they escape immediately.)

=== Winning ===
If you win the event by demoralizing all the enemy cars and pedestrians or causing them to run away, you will be allowed to loot the remaining enemy vehicles.

Detailed information about looting is on the [[Looting]] page.

=== Losing ===
If you lose the event, and you have surviving characters, they will form a ''footsquad'', and start to walk back to town.
Walking back to town is ten times (10x) slower than driving, and it is highly probable that your ''footsquad'' will have at least one encounter with the [[fauna|creatures]] in the area, or groups of on-foot bandits or mutants.

The walk back to town also exposes your characters to the aurora (they are protected while in their vehicles) and the blistering sun. As a result, characters who have to walk may become sick due to radiation poisoning and/or sunstroke. Stronger characters will be less affected by the environment than weaker characters.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure to equip each of your characters with a personal weapon, otherwise they will have to fight any encounters unarmed.

If your characters have formed a ''footsquad'' any encounters it has can be initiated from your gang's '''Squads''' page.

'''NOTE:''' Anyone with a character in the ''footsquad'' can initiate the encounters as there is no designated ''squad owner'' as there is with vehicle squads.

=== Running Away ===
When you reach '''more than''' 350 meters from the nearest opponent you have the option to ''Escape from combat''. This is available via each vehicle's contextual menu, and will remove the vehicle from the map at the start of the next turn. When all of your vehicles have escaped the event ends.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure you do not abandon any demoralized vehicles or you could end up losing the combat rather than simply running away.

=== Auto-Escape ===
When any vehicles become 500 meters away from the closest enemy they will automatically be removed from the map at the start of the next turn. This applies to both your vehicles and the NPC's.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure you do not abandon any demoralized vehicles or you could end up losing the combat rather than simply running away.

=== Town Safety Zones ===
There is a safety zone around each town (except Firelight) that simulates the desire of the general populace to keep the warfare out of the town proper.

When your vehicle is within this zone you will receive a message that your car is within the town limits and can escape safely. It is not necessary to be beyond the 350m escape distance in order to escape safely into a town.

It is important to note that the NPC vehicles have this capability as well, and they will use it if they become demoralized or if they are "losing" the battle and decide to escape. As a result, it is not uncommon to have enemy cars disappear in the middle of the combat if you are fighting close to the city limits.

Firelight is currently the only town without a safety zone. When attempting to escape 'into the city' you must reach the standard escape distance of 350 meters regardless of your proximity to the city walls, gates, or buildings.

'''NOTE:''' The town safety zones do '''not''' exist/function when participating in the Militia v. Pirates Town Defense PvP events.

=== Process the Return ===

The squad owner must process the return to finish the scout. There may or not be a return encounter. The squad owner can eliminate an encounter event being generated by the server by placing a checkmark in the Accept truces from all NPC traders box. If the squad owner wishes not have an encounter event generated for friendly factions encounter, the squad owner can place a checkmark in the Accept truces from all members of friendly factions box. It is not necessary these boxes be checked but if the squad owner wants to save time they can do so. The boxes can be checked or unchecked at any time before processing the next encounter whether it be a return or the initial scout.

=== How to process for a return if the squad owner doesn't process the return ===

If you go on a scout and the owner of the squad doesn't process the return you can do it yourself.

you can use the split squad option. click the split squad button below the list of vehicles and put your vehicles in a new split squad.

then a new squad will be created called split (name of the squad here) then you can process the return.

[[Category: Events]]
[[Category: New Player]]
[[Category: Scouting]]
[[Category: Scouts]]

Scouting (activity)

2011-02-04T02:43:11Z

JD: description wording change/easier to understand

''Scouting'' is getting a group of players together, forming a squad, and going out into the wilderness to fight either NPC pirates or NPC traders. It is not necessary to get a group together, but scouting in a group is usually safer than scouting solo, and is more fun (more often than not).

== Factors in Scouting ==
There are several things that affect what we encounter on scouts.

=== Place of Origin for a Scout ===
Starting out, the town you are now in is Somerset, you will probably be scouting from here as you try to make your name in Darkwind. Each town and camp has a different difficulty level associated with them for scouting. Scouting farther distances from towns will mean meeting an enemy with more firepower.

=== Scouting Distance ===
The distance you travel on your scout affects how strong an enemy force you may encounter, the further out you go the more selective you are. As a result, longer scout distances will often result in a more advantageous (read: equitable) encounter. The minimum return time from a scout is 1 hour, it increases if you go out farther than 20 miles.

The furthest you can go during a scout is 50 miles. Remember you need enough fuel to go '''and''' come back (i.e. enough to travel 100 miles if you scout 50 miles out)!

=== Scouting Direction ===
The direction you choose from your town or camp can affect the firepower you encounter. Heading toward a 'safer' town will mean slightly less firepower, while heading towards more dangerous places will raise the firepower you come across. For new people, I suggest joining one of the camps north of Somerset and scouting towards it.

=== Scouting Skill ===
This affects how much firepower you will come across. More scouting skill means fairer fights, or occasionally an advantage for the player. This only counts the best scout in the group; having more than one scout won't help.

=== Other Factors ===
Some other factors are the vehicle the scout is riding in, and the size of the scout. Putting your scout into a smaller more mobile vehicle may get you a fairer fight. A larger scouting group may get you slightly worse odds.

=== Examples ===

Slidewrx:
''With my two Windy II cars at about 300 CR, I would head out of Somerset toward the Slack Shack. Going 25 miles out, with a 90 scout means I would get roughly equal or slightly good odds. I would be fighting 250-300 CR opponents. 250 CR is the minimum enconter, so it might have been better odds if I brought more vehicles to raise my CR.''

''With the same crew I would head out from Somerset toward Gateway (again 25 miles, 90 scout), and I would encounter 275-325 CR opponents.''

''I drove them to Gateway and started scouting there. Scouting From Gateway, toward Somerset, I went out 50 miles with my now 99 scout, and I regularly encounter ~450 CR opponents! This is with the same 300 CR pair of Windy II's. There are also more return encounters. I need to raise my scouting skill before I go any further I think.''

== Solo Scouting ==
Scouting solo means scouting without other players in the squad. It often means scouting with a single car, but many players who solo scout use multiple vehicles. For more information about solo scouting, read the [[Solo Scouting|Ultimate Guide to an Early Grave]].

== Encounters ==
General information about encounters can be found on the [[Encounters]] page.

== After-action Report ==
A scouting event can have four possible outcomes:

# You win (All opponent cars Demoralized)
# You lose (All your cars Demoralized)
# You run away (Escape at 350m or auto escape at 500m)
# The enemy runs away (Escape at 350m or auto escape at 500m. It also asks if you want to let them go and then they escape immediately.)

=== Winning ===
If you win the event by demoralizing all the enemy cars and pedestrians or causing them to run away, you will be allowed to loot the remaining enemy vehicles.

Detailed information about looting is on the [[Looting]] page.

=== Losing ===
If you lose the event, and you have surviving characters, they will form a ''footsquad'', and start to walk back to town.
Walking back to town is ten times (10x) slower than driving, and it is highly probable that your ''footsquad'' will have at least one encounter with the [[fauna|creatures]] in the area, or groups of on-foot bandits or mutants.

The walk back to town also exposes your characters to the aurora (they are protected while in their vehicles) and the blistering sun. As a result, characters who have to walk may become sick due to radiation poisoning and/or sunstroke. Stronger characters will be less affected by the environment than weaker characters.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure to equip each of your characters with a personal weapon, otherwise they will have to fight any encounters unarmed.

If your characters have formed a ''footsquad'' any encounters it has can be initiated from your gang's '''Squads''' page.

'''NOTE:''' Anyone with a character in the ''footsquad'' can initiate the encounters as there is no designated ''squad owner'' as there is with vehicle squads.

=== Running Away ===
When you reach '''more than''' 350 meters from the nearest opponent you have the option to ''Escape from combat''. This is available via each vehicle's contextual menu, and will remove the vehicle from the map at the start of the next turn. When all of your vehicles have escaped the event ends.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure you do not abandon any demoralized vehicles or you could end up losing the combat rather than simply running away.

=== Auto-Escape ===
When any vehicles become 500 meters away from the closest enemy they will automatically be removed from the map at the start of the next turn. This applies to both your vehicles and the NPC's.

'''NOTE:''' Be sure you do not abandon any demoralized vehicles or you could end up losing the combat rather than simply running away.

=== Town Safety Zones ===
There is a safety zone around each town (except Firelight) that simulates the desire of the general populace to keep the warfare out of the town proper.

When your vehicle is within this zone you will receive a message that your car is within the town limits and can escape safely. It is not necessary to be beyond the 350m escape distance in order to escape safely into a town.

It is important to note that the NPC vehicles have this capability as well, and they will use it if they become demoralized or if they are "losing" the battle and decide to escape. As a result, it is not uncommon to have enemy cars disappear in the middle of the combat if you are fighting close to the city limits.

Firelight is currently the only town without a safety zone. When attempting to escape 'into the city' you must reach the standard escape distance of 350 meters regardless of your proximity to the city walls, gates, or buildings.

'''NOTE:''' The town safety zones do '''not''' exist/function when participating in the Militia v. Pirates Town Defense PvP events.

=== Process the Return ===

The squad owner must process the return to finish the scout. There may or not be a return encounter. The squad owner can eliminate an encounter event being generated by the server by placing a checkmark in the Accept truces from all NPC traders box. If the squad owner wishes not have an encounter event generated for friendly factions encounter, the squad owner can place a checkmark in the Accept truces from all members of friendly factions box. It is not necessary these boxes be checked but if the squad owner wants to save time they can do so. The boxes can be checked or unchecked at any time before processing the next encounter whether it be a return or the initial scout.

=== How to process for a return if the squad owner doesn't process the return ===

If you go on a scout and the owner of the squad doesn't process the return you can do it yourself.

you can use the split squad option. click the split squad button below the list of vehicles and put your vehicles in a new split squad.

then a new squad will be created called split (name of the squad here) then you can process the return.

[[Category: Events]]
[[Category: New Player]]
[[Category: Scouting]]
[[Category: Scouts]]

Gunboat

2011-02-04T02:30:35Z

JD: had some sp. errors... fixed now

Based on the venerable [[PBR Streetgang]] combat Lorry [[Player Vehicle Designs]], This is the battleship of the desert!

It has 4! Yes, 4 [[Car Cannon]] (2 on each side) 2 [[Rocket Launcher]] in front and 2 [[Heavy Machine Gun]] in back, you would not be considered a coward if you ran away from this opponent if/when you come up against it in combat.

Depending on the skill NPC gunners it carries, and the damage it '''WILL''' do to you if you get too close, you '''MIGHT''' be able to loot one of these monstrosities.

Careful maneuvering and the choice of your weapons will decide the battle more than likely.

Use the terrain to your advantage and get this "land-whale" into a slow speed turning fight and concentrate on one armor facing to demoralize their crew before they turn you and your gunners into puddles of goo that will need to be washed out of their seats.

Gunboat

2011-02-04T02:28:31Z

JD: link additions

Based on the venerable [[PBR Streetgang]] combat Lorry [[Player Vehicle Designs]], This is the battleship of the desert!

It has 4! Yes, 4 [[Car Cannon]] (2 on each side) 2 [[Rocket Launcher]] in front and 2 [[Heavy Machine Gun]] in back, you would not be considered a coward if you ran away from this opponent if/when you come up against it in combat.

Depending on the skill NPC gunners it carries, and the damage it '''WILL''' do to you if you get too close, you '''MIGHT''' be able to loot one of these monstrosities.

Careful maneuvering and the choice of your weapons will decide the battle more than likely.

Use the terrain to your advantage and get this "land-whale" into a slow speed turning fight and concentrate on one armor facing to demoralize their crew before they turn you and your gunners into a puddles of goo that will need to be washed out of their seats.